Fresh mozzarella, burrata and ricotta: A family farm near Prague with an Italian soul
Wake up at 5:30, get in the car at 6:00 and head to the Říčany part of the city, specifically Voderadky. There we are greeted at one of the old farmhouses by an energetic woman - Iveta Manieri from the family dairy Latteria di Antonio which she founded with her husband Antonio.
"Where are your boots?" she asks with a little embarrassment when she sees that only two of our group have the rubber boots we were supposed to bring. But in the end she takes pity on us and, saying that we have to be very careful of the slippery floor, lets us in.
We then disinfect our hands, put on our hairnets and enter into a small space where big things happen five days a week. They make mozzarella, burrata, scamorza, ricotta - the cheeses the chefs work with in the two Ambiente restaurants - Pasta Fresca and Pizza Nuova.
"Every day we process three to four thousand litres of milk. Sometimes six," begins Iveta Manieri, who is in charge of the paperwork, but when necessary she helps in the production or gets behind the wheel of the van and delivers the goods. Her husband Antonio is the heart of the dairy - the boss, the producer and the bearer of Italian tradition.
The idea of making his own cheese was born around 2015. When their son Victor was born, Antonio prepared a celebration and he made an honest homemade mozzarella for the feast. They were both working in different fields at the time: Antonio worked in construction, but had previous experience in Italian dairies, and Iveta worked as an illustrator and graphic designer. Eventually they changed direction. And they did well, as their products are increasingly in demand.
Fresh milk around the corner
The basis of everything is milk - fresh, straight from the cows on the farm just behind the dairy with which the Manieris have long worked. The milk is brought to the factory, where it is transferred via a dispatch hose to the tanks. Everything here has to be precise. As Antonio says: "The milk doesn't wait."
The basic production vat has a capacity of 1,000 litres, the larger one 2,000. Then there's a third vat, which also contains milk - this is used to make ricotta. This is made from the whey left over after making mozzarella. Only a little bit of the milk is added to the of citric acid and rennet - no chemicals, no preservatives.
"We want it to be as pure as possible. We extend the shelf life just by using filtered water that goes through reverse osmosis," says Iveta.
Hands, feeling and practice
When we arrive at the main but tiny operation, this is where Antonio and his colleague make burrata. Everything by hand. "Each one has to be watched. If one goes wrong, the dough goes back. It's still warm and malleable," Iveta points out, letting us try our hand at filling the burrata. It looks easy, but practice proves otherwise. After a few failed "cheese balls", however, we start to get better at it.
Mozzarella is made here in machines that grind, heat and shape the cheese into balls - usually 100 or 200 grams. But burrata? That's another story. "The mozzarella dough is cut into long strips and torn by hand, and mixed with cream to make a creamy filling. The mixture is then filled by hand into the thin mozzarella pocket," Iveta describes the process.
In addition to the classic balls and burrata, there are also nodini, small nodules that are suitable for salads or antipasti. For example scamorzawhich must be left to dry, so it's stored in boxes. Some cheeses are grated at the request of the customer. - by hand, on a conventional grater.
You can tell what distinguishes local mozzarella from regular supermarket mozzarella when you cut it open. The milky liquid inside is a sign of freshness. "With regular ones, it's the mixed residues, emulsifiers... and that's why people often say mozzarella has no taste. But the fresh one is a completely different experience," says Iveta.
But the formula for the perfect mozzarella is never the same. "The fattiness of the milk varies, it depends on the season, the weather... You have to have a feel for it. Otherwise it would just be cheese gum."
Customised cheese
Every cheese is different, and it not only in taste, but also in texture and the ability to adapt to the customer's specific requirements. "It depends on who the cheese is made for," explains Iveta. Some people want a softer mozzarella, others a Fior di latte that can withstand the high temperatures in the oven. "We adapt it a lot. Every restaurateur has a different oven, different dough, different requirements," says Iveta.
Latteria products go to restaurants all over Prague, but also to SCUK or through FANY Gastroservis. You can also buy cheese directly from in their shop.
The beginnings were modest. The first cheeses were made in a rented dairy and sold in a small shop in Říčany, Central Bohemia, where the Manieri family lived. Soon a mobile shop was added and with it markets and festivals. Thanks to their honest work, they gradually gained larger customers.
And what are their current plans? A bakery where Latteria's cheeses will find another use.. For there is something in them that cannot be bought - time, care and an Italian heart.
Glossary
An Italian classic made of fresh cows milk. It should be stretchy, juicy and when cut, milk should run out – this is a sign of freshness. Used in salads, on pizza, or just on bread with tomatoes.
Burrata
Burrata is like a surprise in cheese form: a thin layer of mozzarella on the outside, and a luxurious mix of cream and stracciatella (torn mozzarella) on the inside. Ideal for serving with a drizzle of olive oil and fresh bread.
Scamorza
Similar to Czech pařenice, scamorza is made differently to mozzarella, but the mixture is the same. After shaping, it is left to dry and rest, creating a firmer texture and bolder taste. It can even be smoked. Perfect for cooking, as it becaomes beautifully stringy but does not melt completely.
Ricotta
A dairy product made from whey, much like curd but without the sour taste, and a side product of mozzarella. Ricotta has a light, creamy structure and slightly sweet taste. Perfect for sweet and savoury recipes, from ravioli to cakes.
