Where do the borders of Central European cuisine lie and why should we explore it?
Czech is Central European
Natural conditions and local ingredients, traditional recipes and techniques, craftsmanship and human spirit are all links between the cultures of Central Europe that contribute to cross-border Central European cuisine.
To explore, define and highlight (nationally and internationally) its existence has become another vision of Ambiente, which is carried out, among other things, in the UM Education Centre. On the basis of various educational activities, testing and cooking in a training kitchen, through inspirational trips, internships and, above all, in collaboration with experts such as historian Irena Korbelářová from the Silesian University in Opava, an initial definition is emerging and at the same time awareness of the development of Czech cuisine is growing.
"Its roots are purely Central European. For centuries, it has sprung from local traditions and customs, but it has also significantly absorbed influences from neighbouring countries and been inspired by the tastes of consumers and the skills of master chefs from across the social strata," says Professor Korbelářová.
Czech is Danube
Discussions and findings show that the phenomenon of Czech cuisine was born at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries. "Many years of research into the culinary heritage of Bohemia, Moravia and Silesia have led us to the conclusion that Central European cuisine is the cuisine of the Danube," says the professor.
"Culinarily, they are together The Czech lands, Bavaria, Upper and Lower Austria are the most closely linked. We cannot forget the territory of Upper Hungary, especially today's Hungary with Budapest, and in more recent times Czech cuisine has also been inspired by traditional Slovak dishes. In Poland, we are close to the Cracow region, which was part of the Habsburg monarchy from the end of the 18th century, and to some extent also Upper Silesia. However, Polish cuisine is clearly different from ours."
Other experts, such as the Austrian historian and educator Sabine Flöcklmüller, have come to a similar conclusion.The strongest connection can indeed be observed between Bavaria, the Czech Republic and Vienna. Katharina Prato's cookbook Süddeutsche Küche (South German Cuisine) is a kind of showcase of Central European cuisine, which starts in Bavaria, encompasses Bohemia, Moravia and Austria and extends all the way to Trieste in northern Italy."
The German culturist and journalist Peter Peter has written about the common elements of the so-called Danube cuisine. "It stretches from Germany through Austria and Slovakia to Hungary and Romania and undoubtedly touches Czech cuisine as well. Recipes simply do not stop at political borders," he adds.
The proximity of Czech and Danube cuisine, according to Irena Korbelářová, the closeness of the Danube region is already apparent in old, almost forgotten cookery books. These include the recipe book of the spa restaurateur Marie Anna Neudecker and the cook Václav Pacovský from the early 19th century, but also, for example, the later book Marie B. Svobodová or the Opava restaurateur Theresia Adam. "Czech cuisine combining all these influences is represented by the work of the 'guru' of First Republic home cooking, Marie Janků-Sandtnerová," adds the professor.
Czech under the sign of the monarchy
Looking at historical maps, Central European culture takes on a clearer shape. Mutual The enrichment and contributions of the individual cuisines is illustrated by another Austrian historian, Ingrid Haslinger, in her book Die Wiener Küchewhich takes into account the symbiosis of the crown lands (and peoples) in the Habsburg monarchy as well as the neighbourly culinary exchange during the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
"Vienna has become the centre of the birth of Danube cuisine, which is also known as 'fusion'. In dishes and menus, fusion was intertwined and elements of courtly, aristocratic, bourgeois and, to some extent, rural culture originating from all regions of the monarchy. It cannot be denied that it had a certain refinement without being snobbish, and at the same time a little bit of folkiness without being ordinary," says Irena Korbelářová.
Bohemia, Moravia and Silesia contributed to the history of Danubian cuisine, for example, with pancakes, puddings and various pies, blackened carp, dumplings and Prague ham, while goulash, pancakes, pancakes and perhaps even strudel spread from Hungary. Bavaria, like the Czech and Austrian countries, is famous for its typical combination of roast meat, cabbage and dumplings or sweet dumplings.
The Czech Republic used to be famous
The topic of the so-called 'Kronländer-Küche' (cuisine of the Crown Lands) is a topic of interest in the centre of UM, but also abroad, and the expression "Böhmische Küche", the technical term for our cuisine, which still enjoys a good reputation, at least in Germany and Austria.
"There are few cultures in the world that have been so influenced, and at the same time so influential themselves, as yours. Czech cuisine has received, but also given a lot of impulses," says anthropologist and historian Gunther Hirschfelder from Regensburg. He is not the only expert whose perspective helps us see local tradition through the eyes of foreigners and realise its specifics and maturity.
"I believe that Czech cuisine is more than regional or national. It is a cuisine from which much has spread to neighbouring countries and which once shone brightly. In old Austrian and Viennese cookbooks it is presented as 'Hochküche', i.e. high cuisine," emphasises Peter Peter.
In addition, our neighbours still use the term "Böhmische Köchin" (Czech cookery). "Czech cooks came to Vienna mainly after 1850 to cook as housekeepers in German-speaking households. This is why some recipes have become known as Czech cookbooks and have the word 'böhmische' in the title," explains Sabine Flöcklmüller.
Czech is ours
Parallel to the idea of Central European cuisine, the need to focus on Czech cuisine has intensified at Ambiente. On its character, ingredients and recipes, which are "more than any other cultural heritage shaped by a specific geographical, natural, cultural and social environment and become part of the identity of a particular community, right down to the level of the family or household,' states the encyclopaedia compiled by Irena Korbelářová. It seems as if the time is ripe to stand up for the fact that Czech cuisine is ours and unique, even though it has its roots in the foundations of nearby related cuisines.
"Czech cuisine is often considered a white spot on the map in Germany. We all know about it, but we hardly know it in practice, and when we do, it's in a form that I think is too narrowed down to a few dishes," adds Elke Scholand-Bredl, who studied gastrosophy and, as a native of the German Sudeten border region, has long been dedicated to Czech cuisine and its identity. The mission of UM and other professionals who dig for local gastronomy could be called: Colour the white place!
Education is the answer
"Each of us has our own picture of Czech cuisine, we paint it from birth. But to understand why this cuisine exists in our country and what milestones have defined it, we need to read a lot, travel and talk to experts," says Tomáš Karpíšek, founder of Ambiente, emphasising the importance of education. The background was acquired at UM.
The aforementioned inspirational trips, internships, an educational seminar called To the roots, but also various workshops, in-house training and pop-ups or one-day symposiums with guest chefs are intended to broaden awareness not only of Czech cuisine and contribute to education in gastronomy and crafts that shape it.
Seasonality is the key
In addition, a team of creative chefs set about creating seasonal and festive food calendars, which will serve primarily Ambiente chefs for the time being. It's a lesson in merchandising! The two related calendars illustrate the real season in the Czech lands and the link between natural cycles and traditional Czech cuisine, summarise information on the quality of ingredients, offer recipes and contacts to suppliers.
"Seasonality brings us closer to the essence of our cuisine, which used to be seasonal quite naturally, and allows us to cook modern Czech cuisine at the best possible level with the best Czech ingredients," says creative chef František Skopec about the project, which should in the future provide education beyond Ambiente's doorstep. Because our cuisine is all of us!
The aim of the association is to promote and raise the profile of the region, its typical ingredients, good producers and, above all, restaurateurs who invest their energy in preserving and developing culinary traditions.The debate in the Alpine region was sparked off years ago by Swiss author and food scout Dominik Flammer. "Alpine cuisine is based on seasonality, local ingredients and original recipes that are interpreted in a modern way. But above all, it depends on the producers! Without them, regional gastronomy has no future," says Flammer.
