Štangl works magic with cheese and eggs: What did we learn on our visit to the farmers?
A tasting dinner at Štangl
We put on our hiking boots, put on our not-so-holiday clothes, threw a snack in our backpack and set off on the classically clogged D1 motorway, a whole different world opened up - picture-perfect winding roads, pastures and green hillsides.
The destination? Bláto farm near Uhlířské Janovice. Its owner Pavel Šich welcomed us in the sensitively renovated bistro Maštal, which is open mainly on weekends. He and his colleague Karolina, his right-hand woman, introduced us right away they prepared a cheese tasting and an hour or so of chatting about how the whole project came about.
The philosophy of the farm began to take shape in the year 1998, when Pavel Šich, then a student at the Academy of Fine Arts, and his wife Kateřina, a graduate of the agricultural school, decided to leave the fast pace of Prague. First, they renovated the dilapidated mill and pond in Žíšov and in 2012 they expanded their farming to nearby Bláto.
"The urban pace and the pursuit of supposed success, culminating in a cultural experience in a supermarket shopping cart, became indigestible for us," says Pavel Šich, who as an artist leaves his imprint on every restored building, restoring the spirit of the first republican farmhouse. Today, he and his team manage approximately 25 hectares. "We are a completely free island, nobody interferes with us," he adds.
Not only farming, but landscape stewardship
Bláto Farm is renowned for its production hard and semi-hard ripened cheeses from grazing cows' milk, using recipes that date back several centuries. However, its influence extends far beyond the walls of the cheese factory.
"Our approach to farming is not just about rearing cows, but it's about looking after the whole landscape," emphasises Šich. "We plant trees, we create woods, pastures and orchards of old varieties, we raise fish. Comprehensiveness in farming is key for us," he explains.
The holistic approach is also reflected in the choice of livestock. The farm relies on Brown Swiss and Jersey cattle, whose milk is naturally higher protein content and easier to digest thanks to A2 casein. It does not undergo standardisation or shock pasteurisation, as is common with industrially processed milk.
"Milk changes with the seasons, but also with the weather. It also depends on whether the cows are on pasture or in the cowshed. So cheeses are never exactly the same - it's an adventure," says Pavel Šich.
Vidlák cheese: the star of the tasting menu
After the theoretical part, we went to see the cows and got a glimpse of the cheese factory, where all the magic happens. The fresh, unpasteurised milk is used to create the cheeses that go not only to Štangl but also to other Ambiente restaurants.
While fresh cheeses are for immediate consumption, ripened mountain cheeses need to rest - they rest in the mature rooms in the bowels of the farmhouse for six weeks to three years. "Before the cheese reaches the customer's table, it goes through through the hands of the cheesemakers hundreds of times," explains Pavel Šich.
And how did Bláto farm and Chef Martin Štangl come together? "It was recommended to me by my colleagues from La Degustation who have been working with it since the beginning," says Martin. Štangl currently has their mature Vidlák cheese on the menu, inspired by Italy and bursting with a light, nutty flavour.
"We'll probably consume two and a half kilograms a week, which is quite a lot for a tasting restaurant," says Martin. "We use it in a dish with cheese mousse (espuma) - we dissolve Vidlak in cream and serve it with dried courgette, salty granola made from miso paste and wild herbs."
A visit that makes sense
For the Štangl team, a visit to the farm is essential. "It's extremely important for colleagues to get a feel for the farm - to know who's behind a particular ingredient. They can then better explain to guests why our dishes are more expensive: because we take ingredients from people who do things honestly," emphasises Martin Štangl.
At Farma Bláto, we came to understand the depth of philosophy and the honesty of the work behind each piece of cheese. But our journey didn't end there - we had a tour of Štamberk farm, about an hour away near Blaník, where we were greeted by Vilém Kerouš, who has long been involved in permaculture.
First, he took us around the pond to introduce us to the regenerative approach to water management. And then we moved on to the main point of interest: the pastures where the laying hens spend their days.
Movable hen houses
What makes the eggs from Štamberk different from the others? The secret lies in the care of the hens and the soil. "Our eggs are full of nutrients. They have a firm white and a yolk that is also richly coloured," explains Vilém Kerouš. "At Štangl, eggs are mainly used during breakfast, but we often cook with them during evening tastings," adds Martin Štangl.
The hens lay eggs here in mobile free-range henhouses, which are moved once a week. "This means they always have fresh pasture, which benefits their health and the taste of the eggs," explains Kerouš.
In addition to the complex feed, the hens can eat insects or graze on grass and roots. The breeding takes place in a newly established agroforestry system near Hrajovice. A mobile aviary above the hen houses also protects the flock from predator attacks.
Regenerative vision
The Štamberk farm champions regenerative agriculture - they farm in such a way that the landscape is left in a better condition than when they took it over.
How do they achieve this?
- Chickens as helpers: They fertilise the soil with their droppings and naturally loosen it by raking and scratching.
- More fertile soil: The goal is soil full of life - with better texture, colour and smell.
- Water and erosion: Root-rich soil retains water, prevents erosion and helps the landscape to breathe.
The farm also works with Carboneg to store carbon dioxide in the soil. They don't have organic certification yet, but Kerouš is clear: "The best certification for us is satisfied customers. We like to show them how we farm."
Cooperation with Štangl
Štangl takes approximately 90 eggs per week. "I came across them thanks to a poster in the Holešovice market. I was intrigued by the fact that they go the regenerative way and move the hen houses. If the hen has enough green and now and then she eats a beetle, the egg is much better quality," confirms Martin Štangl.
The visit to the two farms was not just a trip for the whole team, but brought everyone a deeper understanding. It helped us to understand that behind every cheese and egg there is work that makes sense - for people, animals and the landscape.
