A manifesto for Czech cuisine, introduced by Chef Oldřich Sahajdák
Czech cuisine has an advocate! Nová česká, The New Czech Association, subscribes to tradition, authenticity and honesty and wants to continue to develop it in the context of today's times and responsibly towards future generations. "Our attention has been diverted elsewhere in the past, but now it is necessary to re-examine what is ours, what is Czech, and to do everything we can to preserve the continuity of traditional Czech cuisine," says Tomáš Karpíšek, one of the founding members of the association.
The initiative was also born by chef patron Oldřich Sahajdák and chef Marco Christov from La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise, creative Ambiente chefs Daniel Juráš, František Skopec, Jana Jelič, Jiří Horák and Tomáš Valkovič, manager Jana Slabá and chef Tomáš Kalina. They brought together an interest in what it means to cook Czech and with respect to the Czech landscape, society and culture.
A link to the past
New Czech is not so much new as it is a continuation - it does not want to change the basics, but to build on them a better and more durable gastronomy. The association met for the first time on 16 December 2024 at Café Savoy, at the address where Tomáš Karpíšek and Oldřich Sahajdák launched the renaissance of Czech cuisine twenty years ago, only to open La Degustation shortly afterwards and win (stellar) recognition for local gastronomy. "At La Degustation, I started the process of the national revival of Czech cuisine, or at least that's how I perceive it in retrospect," Tomáš recalls the first efforts to rewrite the norms of Czech food.
"We wish to rid our cuisine of all unnecessary layers that have accumulated since the days of socialism, and return it to its original purity, high culture of preparation and the use of fresh and seasonal ingredients," he said at the time Oldřich Sahajdák. It was he who gave the impetus to the founding of New Czech, and in his role as chairman of the association today he speaks to the domestic gastro scene:
"We have long looked up to the French, admiring their techniques, their approach to ingredients and their craft. Now it's time to be inspired by how they set in motion the Nouvelle cuisine movement and how they have made their national cuisine a world-renowned concept."
The New Czech also respects the New Nordic Cuisine movement, or the legacy of chefs like Gualtiero Marchesi - the father of modern Italian cuisine - but also the feat of the Spaniards who, more than thirty years ago, sparked the revolution of Spanish cuisine.
The statutes of the association state that Czech cuisine does not need a revolutionbut the quality of the ingredients, the craft and the people, the care and pride of the cooks, the guests and the nation. Culinary self-confidence raises the level of hospitality, which can thus benefit tourism, the economy and the environment.
The chefs' decision to join the Foundation was reinforced by, among other things trips to Japan. This makes them realise how crucial it is to be aware of one's own identity, to honour seasonality and to humbly break with tradition. "What I brought back from there was confirmation that we are moving in the right direction and have further cultivate our national culinary identity. And to defend our potato pancakes, dumplings and buns, as well as heritage livestock breeds" mentions Oldřich Sahajdák.
Cuisine with origins
A similar, albeit unofficial, manifesto was "served" back in the autumn of 2024 at a dinner cooked by Ambiente chefs and pastry chefs for the featured guests of the Prague Culinary Symposium. The tasting menu embodied the simple, yet noble character of the cuisine that used to, and still has the ability to dazzle the world. Meatloaf in bread, pork in carrots or sirloin sauce proved that there is nothing to be ashamed of, and at the same time honoured the daily work of farmers who contribute to food culture as much as gastronomy.
"Our landscape, climate and skilful Czech hands have always produced the food that has done best in our conditions and which has been cooked at home and in taverns. This has determined our cooking methods, our tastes, our typical dishes and their fame," says Tomáš Karpíšek, sharing a view with which the association resonates strongly.Czech cuisine has its origins in the Czech landscape. This is something that we should explore, rediscover, nurture and reassess together with farmers and other experts. The result and the fruits of these efforts could be the New Czech Cuisine."
Signatures at Bokovka
From the moment of its foundation, the association was engaged in planning projects and also in formulating concisely where its activities and ultimately the New Czech Cuisine should be directed. And since cooperation is necessary to win, the New Czech Kitchen held meetings in the Bokovka wine bar. At the end of August, it invited chefs, pastry chefs, bakers, butchers... all those who share the values of the association, have a relationship with their native cuisine and want to contribute to its development.
"Pilsner beer is famous for being brewed from good Czech hops, and we all like it. But when frying cauliflower, many cooks don't care whether they are frying cauliflower from the Czech Republic or from Portugal. It annoys me personally, and I wish it annoyed you too," said Oldřich Sahajdák to more than eighty guests that evening.
The acoustics of Bokovka's backyard allowed the manifesto's main points to come through. "It is important to start from the gastronomic schoolsWe see this as a great contribution of our association. Students should learn about the local season and production, they should understand what the tradition of Czech cuisine is, and know what tripe soup or dumplings in an egg taste like," Oldřich added to the point The future is young which emphasises the importance of education. Only a deep knowledge of the field allows one to cook modern cuisine that suits today's world and people.
"Twenty years from now, when I get a meal at Lokal or any other Czech restaurant, I would like to look at my plate and know without hesitation where I am and what season it is. And most importantly - the food must taste great! That's our key to change," Oldrich concluded his performance. The manifesto was then signed by the founding members, but also chefs and colleagues from various businesses and parts of the country, including David Rejhon, Jan Malý, Maroš Jambor, Ondřej Koráb, Petr Bartoš and Petr Židek, Tomáš Cibulka and Tomáš Popp. And not only those!
Behind one rope
Although Nova Česká was created mainly by people from Ambiente, it is not about the activities of this group of restaurants, but a team of specific people - and the association is meant to serve as a platform open to all professionals and advocates of true Czech cuisine.
"I consider the most important topic to be the connection between restaurants and farmers. Thanks to better communication we can support local producers, draw attention to them and increase demand for their work.. It would be great to focus on the logistics of raw materials and legislation that would improve conditions for smaller producers. When there is demand, there is supply - and that is the way to move gastronomy forward," commented the chef of Papilio restaurant Jan Knedla on the manifesto.
The following organisations have also expressed their support Gault&Millau, Bocuse d'Or or AKC ČR (Association of Chefs and Confectioners of the Czech Republic) and its Old Guard and other experts and people in the field, such as historian Jitka Sobotková, farmer Hanka Součková or Jiří Prachař, founder of Farmer School. This is to bring gastronomy closer to both academia and agriculture.
"What I like most about this whole thing the opportunity to come together as a community and discuss everything together. Many of us who have come to Bokovka don't know each other, we only see each other on Instagram, and at these meetings or events we can establish and expand our partnerships. This allows us to make big changes in the long run. If you want to go fast, go alone, but if you want to go far, go together," added chef Otto Vašák.
To schools, farms and abroad
The goals of the New Czech are fulfilled by everyday work and everyday actions, as demonstrated by the following examples in response to the publication of the manifesto Tábor-based Triko and its seasonal Czech menu. However, the association will soon offer other other opportunities to get involved and turn ideas into action.
On the agenda are talks in schools, visits to farmers and cooking together on farms, various workshops, pop-ups or gastronomic eventsthat showcase the pure nature and charm of our cuisine.
The first major event will be a fundraising dinner at the end of September, to be cooked by members of the club with Slovenian chef Ana Roš as the project's ambassador. It is Ana who has made the region of Slovenia and its cuisine famous on the world stage, and has highlighted the unity of gastronomy, nature and culture - and is setting an example for Nova Bohemia, which is aiming at the same target.
