Soured lentils from Lokál: A symbol of Czech tradition in modern times
At the end of this year, Czech beer glassware returned to Lokál, and Czech lentils have also made a comeback. After all, you can't have Czech cuisine without Czech ingredients! "Lentils used to be grown in our country and are slowly starting to be grown again, so it doesn't make sense for us to buy them from Canada, Kazakhstan, and God knows where else - even though imported lentils cost about half as much as Czech lentils," says Vasek Kouba, the manager of Lokál's kitchens, about the decision to stand up for local ingredients with clear origins, despite the fact that in most Czech restaurants and households, you'll find imported lentils on the table.
A harvest from South Moravia
On New Year's Eve, all Lokál locations will be serving lentils from Markov Farm in Únanova near Znojmo. They cultivate 450 hectares of land, harvest about 20 types of crops, including various cereals, buckwheat, millet, hemp, flax and poppy, and produce cold-pressed oils, flours and other products. A the heart of their approach is a combination of respect for the past and concern for the future.
The Marek family has chosen the path of regenerative agriculture, which emphasises care for the soil and takes steps to support growing, eating and living well in the Czech Republic for the long term. "We see it as a way of farming, but also as an expression of our social responsibility," says they say, mirroring the same goal as Lokál - to leave behind a heritage in the best possible condition, whether that's the landscape, or traditional Czech cuisine.
"Simply put, we act in such a way that we do not disturb the soil structure, avoiding intensive fertilisation and cultivation. We try to keep life in the soil, the presence of earthworms, but also fungal fibres, which act as a carrier of information and nutrients between plants. We believe that this is positively reflected in the taste and nutritional value of the produce," explains Jiří Marek.
A variety from Greece
The Mareks are currently the only ones in the country who harvest small-grain green lentils. "After three years, this spring we finally managed to get quality seed from France, which is not available here. We chose a variety bred in Greece because this country excels in lentil cultivation in Europe," says Jiří Marek. He first planted two hectares as a trial, and next year he will set aside up to five times as much land for lentils.
"We are looking for crops that are interesting for direct sale, not just for purchase. My grandfather remembered that lentils were historically grown in the Znojmo region before the Eastern Bloc agreed to import them from the Soviet Union. They probably had better growing conditions there, but we have those now too. Lentils require a drier climate and lighter soils, and our region offers both," says Jiří. He's rebuilding what used to be, and, like many other farmers, he's learning to better understand nature and technology in the face of climate change.
"The lentils are about 20 centimetres tall, but most pods grow only a few centimetres above the ground and a normal combine harvester can't put the bar low enough to cut the plants. This makes harvesting much more difficult," says Jiří. The fact that lentils ripen unevenly also poses a challenge. "We practise what we call two-phase harvesting - We cut the lentils with a special bar about 14 days before the harvest date and let them ripen and dry in rows. Only then do we harvest with a picking adapter," says Jiří Marek, proving that obstacles for improvement.
An idea from the arena
The contact details of the Marek family were given to Lokál by Zuzana Benešová from the Living Soil Project which, among other things, helps to connect farmers with gastronomy and works with the creative team and the education department at Ambiente. "The lentil, a symbol of abundance, has almost disappeared from the Czech fields. Last year, it was grown on just one and a half hectares, but this year the area has grown to 33 hectares, thanks to the involvement of regenerative farmers like Mr Marek," says Zuzana, noting, "Lentils are good for human and soil health. They enrich the soil with nitrogen, one of the most important nutrients for plants."
Living Soil is organising an event called Producer Arena which creates a space for farmers and chefs to get to know each other,following the example of the Swiss founder of a similar project, Dominik Flammer. The first ever Czech edition took place in November in the Holešovice Market Hall. The chef of Lokál Dlouhááá, Honza Martínek, highlighted the importance of legumes and pioneering in Moravia - and within a week the idea became a reality.
Locality in Lokál
"So far we have taken three hundred kilos, which we will consume at the beginning of January. After that, we will talk about how the lentils are working, and we will agree with the Mareks on their capacities, marketing and distribution possibilities," says Vasek Kouba, who with one phone call helped improve more than just New Year's soured lentils. A typical dish which reflects Lokál's move towards better quality ingredients - whether it's eidam from Struha Farm, flour from Bohutínor vegetables from Hanka Součková in Semice.
"Lentils are another theme for us. Next year we would like to focus on legumes in general, especially peas and beans. We won't process as many of them as onions or pork, but but every better raw material counts," says Vasek. Both for the New Year, and all year round!
