Overseeing the vision, menu and operations of the restaurant: When does a chef become a chef patron?
A Michelin-starred restaurant in the centre of Prague
The tasting menu presents a seasonal ingredients from select farmers, gatherers and hunters. We place a lot of energy into finding them, and cook to emphasise the individuality of each ingredient.
Our dishes are rooted in traditional cuisine, finding inspiration in the cycles of nature, and the relationships between the ingredients we select. When we prepare game, careful attention is payed to the environment in which the animal lives, what it eats, and how the seasons influence its flavour.
Our sommeliers contemplate and experiment with wine and non-alcoholic food pairings, mixing fruit, vegetables, herbs and nuts into their drinks.
"The journey is the destination. We are not in business to get rich quick and not have to work anymore, but to have good work that we can be proud of for a long time and one day pass it on to our successors," Tomáš Karpíšek once expressed an idea that is becoming a reality today. Generational change is a fact of life, and for a group such as Ambiente it is essential - the values on which restaurants are built can only last if the older generation can share them with their younger colleagues and if they sincerely identify with them. This is what is happening at La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise, where chef Oldřich Sahajdák has been promoted to the role of chef patron.
"For me, cooking is as demanding as a top-level sport. You stand on your feet for long hours, and you can't do it forever. I want to continue to be in Hastalska, to be around food and I see the position of chef patron as a natural progression in my career," Oldřich explains the change, which did not happen overnight, but slowly and with purpose - the restaurant is ensuring the continuation of its story. The chance to play the role of chef was given to Marco Christov, who, as the bearer of the original philosophy, adheres to the set standards and cooks in the style of Bohême Bourgeoise.
"Marco is the ideal chef. He has energy and enthusiasm for Czech cuisine which gives me confidence that I don't have to worry about the future of our pub. His job is to make sure that guests and suppliers are interested in La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise and that the work there is worthwhile," comments Oldřich on the decision.
Coaching and motivation
"I don't know if I have wised up, but what is certain is that I am no longer a chef, but a coach and as a coach I have to stop kicking the ball one day. Like a Japanese chef says: I come into the kitchen just to make sure my team doesn't do anything stupid," Oldrich defines the position in a nutshell. The position does not require him to stand at the counter day in and day out, but to continue to the team's experience, look after the facilities and encourage the chefs to educate themselves and move themselves and the restaurant forward. In doing so, he nurtures a vision that has been fulfilled in the restaurant for more than 18 years, and navigates the concept in an authentic direction.
"Olda approves every dish on the menu. La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise is and always will be his space and I don't mind that at all. On the contrary! He gives me his perspective on cooking, his know how and encourages me to be better every day. At the same time, I can express myself and cook the cuisine I love," says Marco Christov, mentioning:
"The hardest thing for me was dealing with the pressure. The responsibility fell on me in a pub that is considered one of the best in the country. But working with Olga has helped me to get up to speed with my new responsibilities and propelled me forward. It makes it all the better to motivate my team in the kitchen. As a chef, I have to give our people to remind me of the pillars of the restaurant and to instil pride of place where they work."
Criticism and relationships
Chef patron and chef meet on a regular basis - in the office, in the kitchen, or at the table. "Every Monday we go to La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise to eat. We have time to discuss the pub and the team, but we also go through the whole tasting menu. Based on that, Olda gives me strict feedback, which I'm grateful for," Marco explains the routine. In addition, Oldřich Sahajdák seeks out new suppliers, strengthens relationships with existing ones and helps to improve the quality of food and service not only at La Degustation but also at its sister company, Marie B, to which he pays similar attention.
"Olda is our Alain Ducasse, who goes to his restaurants to taste the food and advise on how to cook or serve it better. Just like this. we work together to create a menu that we're constantly updating and raise it to the level we have set for ourselves," says Marie B's chef Jirka Šoura.
Let it go, or you lose it
The title of Chef Patron has its origins abroad. Chef Norbert Niederkofler of the three-star restaurant Norbert Niederkofler stands out among the personalities who are now cooking less and coaching the next generation. Atelier Moessmer. He sums up the conditions for success with the sentence Let it go, or you lose it. "If you don't let go of the sceptre at the right time, you often lose the best people and you're left alone with your vision. It will simply die with you. I don't have anything left to achieve in the kitchen, so I've made room for young talented people," says Niederkofler as the team's patron with an average age of 26.
Both Niederkofler and Oldřich Sahajdák can also focus from their position on outreach that extends beyond the restaurant's doorstep. "Our eating habits impact the entire country. The alpha and omega of everything is the quality of the ingredients. I say this as a chef of a restaurant that has succeeded and wants to give back to the community, but I'm also a dad and I don't care what my kids eat for lunch at school. We should be cooking cuisine that is seasonal, fresher and uses more vegetables from local farmers," Oldřich calls on Czech gastronomy in his forthcoming book on La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise.
In the kitchen as on the set
The evolution of the restaurant industry is also affecting service. Marek Tříska recently took over the role of general manager at La Degustation, while his predecessor, Zdeněk Oudes, took up the same position at Marie B. Both are supported by former general manager and current mentor Tomáš Brosche. "First of all, I can't imagine running around the set anymore, but more importantly, we have smart people around us who need to grow and take on new challenges," says Tomáš, who keeps an eye on the finances and results of both businesses and keeps another protective hand over the restaurant.
"I feel not only a great responsibility, but also a commitment. I know who has worked here before me, and I realise that I have to do my job at least at the same level as them and keep improving," says Marek Tříska openly, and continues "the main task of a general manager is to maintain a good atmosphere in the team, to allow people to develop and to do everything possible to make them have a positive attitude and respect for our pub. That, for me, is the long-term motivation."
Who is a chef patron?
The position of chef patron has a varying definition. One such refers to a chef who is the owner or co-owner of a restaurant and represents it on its behalf. He or she may or may not be involved in the day-to-day operations, but usually has full control over more than just the menu. He also oversees the kitchen operations and the economic development of the restaurant. However, the exact definition of responsibilities and duties depends on the chef patron himself and the conditions of the establishment.
