"I wish I could hire people who want to get ahead of me," says Marco Christov, head chef at La Degustation
A Michelin-starred restaurant in the centre of Prague
The tasting menu presents a seasonal ingredients from select farmers, gatherers and hunters. We place a lot of energy into finding them, and cook to emphasise the individuality of each ingredient.
Our dishes are rooted in traditional cuisine, finding inspiration in the cycles of nature, and the relationships between the ingredients we select. When we prepare game, careful attention is payed to the environment in which the animal lives, what it eats, and how the seasons influence its flavour.
Our sommeliers contemplate and experiment with wine and non-alcoholic food pairings, mixing fruit, vegetables, herbs and nuts into their drinks.
Marco, what's the first thing that comes to mind when you think of La Degustation?
Czech cuisine. Farmers. And the high standards we maintain despite all the changes. In recent years, we've returned to tradition. To the tradition of the region, but above all to the tradition of our restaurant. Olda Sahajdák archives hundreds of recipes, so instead of creating new ones, we want to look at what was invented long ago and perfect the original "signature" dishes. In addition, we are trying to lighten up the sauces. For example, we continue to make dill sauce from white sauce according to Marie B.'s cookbook. Svoboda's recipe, but we add more dill, so it's beautifully green and fresh. We like it that way.
How has your relationship with Czech food changed at Haštalská?
It hasn't changed at all. Classics have always been my favourite. But nowadays I approach it more creatively and dare to experiment. Recently, for example, I wanted to intensify the taste of tomato sauce, so I tried mixing in some puddings. It works great! Just like the sauce on the peppers with strawberries. Sauces are a fundamental element of Czech cuisine, at least that's how we understand it at La Degustation and we put maximum emphasis on them. I don't know of another pub where the broth has been boiling for three days and the sauce has gone from thirty litres to five.
Which sauce stands out on the menu right now?
Each one is special to us. If only because it usually takes a few days to prepare. Last week, we made mushroom béchamel to go with the chicken. We let the mushroom and root vegetable broth simmer overnight, then strain and reduce it in the morning to intensify it. Then we combine it with the white sauce and smoked broth. This too is drawn out overnight. At the end, we stir the thick cooked cream into the pot.
Do you remember your start at La Degustation?
Everything was different and new. I was surprised by the system of work, but also by the people in the team, who were much better than me. On the first day, they put me in the cold section. Chef Karel Havlicek gave me the task of preparing fried peas. I spent the whole day on it. My ego went out the window. By the way, Karel came back last year as a padawan (ed. note: prepper and buyer) for Marie B, which shares the prep kitchen with us. I worked my way up to meat, which used to be the most respected position. Today we look at it differently. Each course is created by the skill of the people who have to play as a unit, and there is no way to determine who is more or less important in the game.
You mentioned the system, and other chefs who have gone through LDBB mention it, why do you think it's essential?
It's bulletproof and can teach anyone who's interested to cook. It's easy for a newcomer to fit into our kitchen without having a resume full of experience. That's especially handy these days, when the staff changes far more often than before. For this reason, we have streamlined our processes so that we serve a stable output while continuing to develop. Spreadsheets that record daily tasks for the position help us, as do morning meetings, precise recipes and order. Martin Filip is also a big help, as he is cooking again at La Degustation after many years as a prep cook. Who else should prepare the basics than a chef who remembers the restaurant's beginnings and knows its DNA?
Which dishes symbolise La Degustation for you?
First of all, sweet and sour brine comes to mind. And dill in any form. As an amuse bouche, we serve a lollipop, which is a classic sauce served cold, which guests literally lick up at the start. At the moment, they're tasting sirloin, soon to be replaced by tomato. My personal favourite is the spa wafer. When I was a kid, I used to buy it at the races my parents and I went to. We make the dough according to Svobodová, but we don't sugar it after baking, instead pair it with our Nutella.
How often do you pick up Cooking School?
I flip through it every now and then, mostly when we're creating a new dish. I read how Marie would cook the recipe and either follow it or go in my own direction. Sometimes we'll borrow the complete instructions from the book, like we did with the basic sauces, the cabbage soup or the chestnut soup. The cookbook sets the boundaries for us. At the same time, she uses exotic ingredients that we don't want to cook with because they are not traditional in our territory. We've simply set stricter boundaries. And then there's Olda, who has the final say and makes sure that La Degustation remains what it is.
What kind of boss is Olda?
Perfect. I have a lot of respect for him for what he's done. Just look at how many skilled pros have come out of his kitchen. Some have gone on to become chefs or even open their own businesses. Sure, it's mostly their merit, but Olda showed them the path to success. In my opinion, he influenced the whole Czech gastronomic scene, even if he himself would not agree. He is too modest for that. Anyway, I think he can be proud - of all those guys and girls who are doing well elsewhere today.
What did your experience at La Degustation allow you to do?
I've learned how to treat ingredients nicely, and I understand why a restaurant should build strong relationships with farmers and suppliers. And I've become a nut when it comes to cleaning. Over the years, I've mellowed, but I haven't stopped wanting to be the best. One of the reasons I've lasted so long at La Degustation is that we don't rest on our laurels, even though we've defended our Michelin star. We're still going up and that's the motivation every chef should have.
So motivation is the key to an interview?
I wish I was hiring people who wanted to get ahead of me. It's not about competing with each other, it's about working on yourself. The easiest way to do that is to learn from each other. If someone cooks the sauce better than you, just go and ask them how they're doing. If you want to grow, you can! There are great conditions for that right here in Haštalská street.
What conditions are crucial for you?
I appreciate the comfort we have at work. After school I experienced a deadly business on a couple of burners, whereas at La Degustation there are two kitchens straight away, prep and serving. Not many places invest so much in operations. Every year there's a renovation, even if it's just to paint the locker room, and the equipment is similarly approached. We don't wait for something to break for the 100th time. But we also deal with the height of the tables in the kitchen. The management is thinking about how to make life easier for the staff, and I appreciate that. And Olda supports us in education. This year I plan to go on an internship, probably to Vienna or Berlin, where I regularly go for inspiration.
A lot of chefs end up wanting their own kitchen. How do you feel about that?
Last year I was there when Marie B opened, so I was able to observe what it entailed and what my colleagues Jirka Šoura or Zdeněk Oudes, who were involved in the whole process, had to go through. I realised how much effort Olda or the general manager Tomáš Brosche had to put in to make La Degustation a success and last for eighteen years. Frankly, I'm not sure I want to go through something like that.
And if I did?
I have a dream of a Czech restaurant in the middle of a field, processing mostly what grows around it. For another, I would open an honest pub with "prasárničky" - I would offer, for example, hamburgers, deer, steaks... and good beer. And in my old age I'd get a small bakery. But for now, I'll make do with what I've got. I work at an address that gives me the opportunity to become a better cook and a better person.
