From the crisp white shirts to elbows on the table. How has restaurant culture changed in the last 30 years?
Rather than assess whether the consequences of the changes in the dining atmosphere are good or bad, we discussed the changing trends and their causes with Filip Trcka, Ambiente Guest Ombudsman, experienced waiter and manager.
The 90s, a time of loosening
If we talk about the Czech environment, loosening in the gastronomy sector went hand in hand with the political situation and its natural influence on society. Relaxed regime, relaxed society, relaxed gastronomy. Of course, a significant role was also played by foreign influences, which brought hitherto unrecognised trends to us.
While hospitality schools still had strictly trimmed hair, uniformity and polished waiter's shoes, in Prague in the mid-1990s, establishments were opening where waiters could laugh openly and wore casual shoes and outfits.
Collars and denim instead of gloves and lace-up shoes
"In the first half of the 1990s, a fresh wind from the north came to us. I walked into the Kampa Park restaurant owned by a Scandinavian duo and was amazed. The waiters were wearing denim shirts, acting casual and relaxed. It was simply a different gastro," Filip Trčka recalls. At that time Tomáš Karpíšek opened his first business - Máneska. His relaxed attitude and emphasis on a personal approach was also his own.
"When I first walked into Máneska a few years later, in 1997, I was pleasantly surprised. The restaurant was colourful, the waiters wore T-shirts with collars and toucan logos, Replay trousers, and most importantly, they had far less formality, were pleasant and personal. This was a big shift at the time and Ambiente had already had a big part in this change. And it still does today," says Filip.
Sincerity and personal approach
In recent decades, we have had the world at our fingertips. With just a few clicks on our phones, we can check the accuracy of information about an ingredient or dish right at the restaurant table. And with today's unlimited access to artificial intelligence, it's even easier and faster. "That's not the only reason why it's worth to be doubly honest. If a waiter simply doesn't know something, it's better to admit it and not make it up.," emphasises Filip.
In a London restaurant with two Michelin stars Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, where Filip recently went on an inspirational trip with the service team, is the flow of information to the guest is taken to an even higher level. Guests have three cards on the table - a different card, a different amount of information that the staff will serve them for each dish.
"For each course we could vary the range. It was interesting to see how quickly the staff reacted. They just winked at the table, saw the card and launched an informed but completely natural presentation accordingly. In the case of the highest level, it went back to the history of the dish," says Filip, adding the real pinnacle of waiter skill would be if the waiters themselves sensed how much information we want to get and how open we are to it."
Empathy, the most valuable quality not only on the set
"You've seen nothing, heard nothing. And also remember that you have to see everything and hear everything," says the maitre d' played by Jiri Labus in I Served the King of England to his "busboy". Although the film reflects a time when it was served from those silver trays and with white gloves, the message applies to modern-day service - just be observant and empathetic.
Whereas in the late 1980s the emphasis was on the guest's personal space, today a waiter or waitress can can afford to kneel at the table and act a little more familiar. However, it is still necessary to be empathetic and to be able to gauge the mood and nature of the guests.
It is through empathy that a waiter or a sommelier can sense if to offer a more expensive wine, recommend a more adventurous dish or crack a joke. "For me, the most valuable skills will always be empathy, communication and the ability to walk the line between seriousness and humour," Filip sums up, adding that this is what he enjoyed so much about working on set.
Knowledge instead of platitudes
Tattoos, nose piercings, extravagant hairstyles, sparkly nails - none of this would have passed strict restaurant etiquette before and would not have been accepted by employers. Today, on the other hand, individuality is rather desirable.but of course it is still necessary to observe basic hygiene habits and maintain a certain a degree of decorum.
Nowadays it is much more appreciated that the staff knows how the birch sap was made that the guest drinks for breakfast, or which farm and which farmer their eggs come from.
"Today's waiters often know far more than the old guard did. They have perfect pre-shift briefings, taste dishes with wine pairings to get a more accurate idea and can be more personal when making recommendations. They get information on ingredients and food preparation techniques. That's the technical part, let's say..." says Filip, adding a punchline:
"...and then there are people who have already got it from God - they are communicative, they can play with the language in a graceful and humorous way, which the Czech language encourages. And all this is related to the fact that we're used to - at least in our country - to such a degree of freedom of speech that used to be common even in society, let alone in businesses."
The world is globalising, gastro is localising
Thirty years ago, the luxury amuse bouche was toast with foie gras or caviar while today, discerning diners enjoy artisan bread with farmer's butter and chives, which instead of exoticism brings emotions and memories of childhood. Presented by localism, craftsmanship and a return to tradition.
A lot of us were influenced by the Scandinavian wave, Noma and its chef René Redzepi. When even in the (then) best restaurant in the world you could - or even were encouraged - to eat the first three courses with your hands, why couldn't cutlery be put away elsewhere?
But a return to the roots didn't just come from Denmark. In the Czech Republic and within the Ambiente Group, this approach has also been developed. "The first Lokál was established sixteen years ago and we started cultivate beer culture and Czech cuisine. La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise opened in 2006 and was the first restaurant that was not tied to a supplier. "Today, I'm far more impressed by the U Kalendů mushroom soup, which is the first of its kind in the country that tastes like my grandmother's, or the dill sauce in Čestr, than lobster with mayonnaise. And I believe I am not alone."
Tradition will remain tradition
Although the rules of service, dining, serving, the look of the interior and uniforms of the staff have changed dramatically, there are some places that will a certain amount of conservatism will always be appropriate. Examples are traditional French restaurants or establishments that hark back to the atmosphere of the First Republic - such as Café Savoy in Újezd.
This type of establishments is especially appreciated by guests from the older generation, who like the more conservative approach, the silver platter service, the precise service, the "madame" and the uniforms with a bow tie simply belong to such places. They are relics of the time.
What's over the edge
And while bowing with your hand behind your back may or may not be passé, there are oversteps that were gross mistakes 50 years ago and will be in another 100 years. These include the inability to admit a mistake, the wine spilled on the table or the so-called arrogance of the concept - for example, when staff refuse to bring sugar for a guest's coffee or salt for eggs because 'it's not done in their establishment'.
"The approach to dealing with various lapses, accidents or omissions also differs. While there used to be a strict etiquette - and in some establishments they still follow it - regarding how to change the tablecloth in front of a guest, nowadays the staff could afford to use subtle humour to balance the situation," Filip compares.
The future? A mobile waiter instead of a pencil behind the ear
According to Filip Trcka, relaxed dining is probably just experiencing its peak and we can expect this trend to gradually slow down. On the contrary technology is evolving at a rocket pace that are helping businesses and staff to assist in day-to-day operations - mobile waiters, kiosks, loyalty card readers, etc.
At the same time, it can be expected that there will be an increasing number of businesses with a small number of staff, but who will be thoroughly educated. According to Filip, we may also see a long-term increase in interest in casual dining versus high-end fine dining. However, even this is still finding its clientele.
A word to the wise
"We are also currently experiencing a big generational change. While our generation used to work 250 hours a month and it seemed natural to us, nowadays young people just want to work and live, to balance it out. It has to do with the fact that we are richer as a society, our mentality is changing and our priorities are changing," says Filip. And he stresses that it is wiser than judging the young generation to listen to them, to refocus our own optics, to communicate with each other and let the young people come to their own experiences.
Join in!
