A slice of bread with ham, or a sweet loupák with cacao: A guide to Czech baked goods through the eyes of a head chef and baker
A bakery and kitchen full of life
A base or a canvas?
If you ask Jarda Kozdělka when he most enjoys cutting a slice of his own bread, he’ll answer without hesitation: “Anytime and with anything.” Regular bread or classic rolls aren’t really his thing at home anymore — he almost always opts for hearty bread, especially the rye 66 from Prague's Eska bakery.
And as a topping? According to him, good bread doesn’t need any fancy tricks. “Bread from Eska is good on its own and doesn’t really need anything extra. I've heard this from our customers, too. They usually buy it to eat on its own or just with some butter,” explains Jarda.
Creative chef Michal Daněk, who got a firsthand taste of baking during the pandemic at the Praktika bakery, sees bread as a pure reflection of the craft. “I don’t really like it when things that belong on top of the bread, like pumpkin or various kinds of vegetables, are mixed into the dough. By doing so, we’re depriving ourselves of what tastes better on bread or with bread,” he believes.
Grain itself, after all, has its own rich flavour, and according to Michal, it’s much better to work primarily with other grains or pseudograins (such as buckwheat, amaranth, or quinoa). “If you’re going to enrich the dough with something, then perhaps poppy seeds — mix the sourdough starter with a little flour and the poppy seeds, which actually pre-ferments the whole mixture,” he adds.
A quick guide: What's what in a Czech bakery?
Sourdough bread
King of the Czech table. Traditionally made from a mix of rye and wheat flour, and often flavoured with caraway seeds. It has a distinctive, crisp crust, moist crumb and characteristic sour taste.
Rohlík and houska
Two classics. A rohlík is a long, curved roll, whereas a houska is often round or plaited. They have a subtle taste and are often paired with butter, ham, chees or as a side to grilled meats or sausages.
Loupák
A sweeter, leavened pastry in the same longer, curved shape as a rohlík, often topped with poppy seeds. It's light, fluffy, slightly sweet and is a breakfast classic, often enjoyed with butter, jam or just on its own.
Kolache (Koláč)
A traditional sweet baked good made of leavened dough, often round and topped with curd, poppy seeds, preserved fruit and crumble. They come in various sizes, with larger ones baked to mark celebrations.
Vánočka
Baked at Christmas, vánočka is sweet, braded dough, much like brioche, often with raisins or almonds added to the mixture. It is served in slices, aljne or with butter and jam.
Dalamánek
A smaller bread roll, often containing a higher percentage of rye flour. It has a more distinctive taste than a rohlík or houska, and is often served with spreads, soups or as the base of an open sandwich.
The best taste combinations
When it comes to the ideal combination, Eska’s head baker has a clear favourite. “My tried-and-true trio is bread, butter, and ham. The best choice in this case is Prague ham from Naše maso,” Jarda suggests. When it’s in season, he opts for another classic — a slice of bread spread with butter, topped with slices of ripe tomatoes.
Michal Daněk enjoys both sweet and savoury versions. He swears by a slice of good bread with honey and jam, but he also recommends a combination of high-quality ham and fresh butter.
Eska doesn’t just bake bread. Its second-best-selling product is the loupák. Here are the expert tips:
- According to Jarda: For me, it’s best either the classic way with cocoa, or savoury, filled with ham and cheese, similar to a croissant.
- According to Michal: I can’t get enough of the combination where these pastries are served at Eska in Letná — that is, a loupák, a smetánek dessert, jam, butter, and a mug of hot cocoa on the side.
What goes with which bread?
Sourdough bread
Its slightly tangy flavour pairs perfectly with butter and both fresh and aged cheeses. But it also works well with other richer and creamier ingredients.
Rye bread
Its bold, earthy, and slightly tangy flavour pairs well with bold cheeses, smoked meats or fish. It also goes well with pickled vegetables or other sour flavours.
Whole-grain bread
The nutty and generally more pronounced flavour of whole-grain bread pairs well with cheese, cold cuts, spreads, and vegetables.
White bread
The delicate flavour of white bread lets whatever you put on it really shine. It goes well with butter, jam, honey and mild cheeses.
Sweet and buttery pastries
Sweet and buttery flavours are nicely balanced by salty or tangy ingredients. Try with cheese, yogurt, cottage cheese, or fresh fruit.
What’s the difference between Bread 33 and Bread 66?
At Eska in Prague, customers most often choose between these two loaves; Bread 33 is always available, while Bread 66 is baked only on Fridays and Sundays. Jarda Kozdělka explains the key difference between them:
- Bread 33 (wheat): It’s designed to appeal to a wider range of customers. It’s similar to conventional breads and lighter in texture, though it’s made using traditional artisanal methods.
- Bread 66 (rye): A rye bread with a typical, distinctly bready flavour. It retains a dense texture. “It’s somewhat similar to the lighter-coloured breads baked abroad. If you want to make bruschetta at home, go for the 66 — it works just as well as wheat bread in most recipes,” recommends Jarda.
Time, temperature, and caring for the slice
Authentic sourdough bread is a living organism, and its behaviour is influenced by both time and temperature. To keep it fresh and moist for up to five days, it needs proper care right from the start.
1. Don’t rush the slicing
“It’s essential that the bread stays whole until it has cooled completely. Especially in the centre, which can take up to ten hours. If you cut into it too soon, it won’t stay fresh as long,” warns Jarda.
2. Proper storage
Bread does best in a dark place with a constant temperature. Jarda recommends following this rule: “It always works better a combination of two elements. A dish towel on its own absorbs moisture and the bread dries out, while a plastic bag on its own creates moisture and the bread can become rubbery,” explains Jarda, adding that the ideal approach is therefore to wrap the loaf in a dish towel and then place it in a bread box or a bag.
Michal Daněk, on the other hand, swears by waxed paper bags. And what if you know you won’t eat the whole loaf? Here, Michal and Jarda agree — feel free to store the leftovers in the freezer.
Down to the last crumb: What to do with stale bread?
Even bread that’s lost its initial crispness doesn’t have to go to waste. In the kitchen, it has countless uses:
- Chips and crackers: Slice the bread into very thin slices and toast until crispy.
- In soups and salads: Cut into cubes to use as croutons.
- Unconventional breadcrumbs and crumble: Breadcrumbs give dishes a distinctive flavour. Michal likes to use them to coat foods like Camembert or to make a savoury crumble.
- Toast: Take an older slice coat in egg, fry until golden brown, and spread with mustard. At Eska, they top it with onion, cucumber, warm Prague ham, and roasted vegetables.
- Thickening and sauces: Soaked and squeezed bread crumbs make a great base for sauces or thicken soups.
