A festive carp recipe from U Kalendů

A restaurant and bakery on the right bank of the Vltava

The U Kalendů pub has occupied the site of the former settlement of Podskalí since the turn of the century. Today, they serve food without pizzaz and carefully treated beer, blurring the line between bakery and restaurant. Chefs make use of yesterday's bread, and the bakers experiment with unexpected ingredients – pick up a crusty loaf or something swet from the bakery, or sample fried kvass in the restaurant.

In the U Kalendů restaurant, the carp fillets are first brined - pickled in a salt brine with sugar and spices to evenly season and firm them up. The salt also softens the bones, which are problematic even if they are thoroughly cut beforehand. 'We use the same brine as for the pork, but we had to get the length of the brining right. Carp is specific in flavour and texture, and the fish fillet can absorb much more salt in a short time than other meats," points out sous-chef Kuba Novák.

The pierced fillets are brined for half an hour, then the chefs take them out, spread them on baking paper skin side up and leave them under a fan for 24 hours. The flowing air dries out the skin, so it roasts beautifully crisp without tearing. "We start by browning the fish in oil, and after a while we add thyme, garlic, lemon zest and butter," says chef Honza Všetečka Jr. "Most of the time, the fillet lies on the skin. From above, we baste it with hot butter so it cooks through while remaining juicy."

The carp is served with a buttermilk sauce that's left over after fresh butter has been made - mixed with pickled elderberries and lemon juice, salt, pepper and a little honey. 'Finally, fry the cauliflower florets, pour in the flavoured buttermilk and stir in a knob of cold butter to form a smooth emulsion. Toss the sauce with fresh spinach, and that's it," adds Kuba.

For two servings:

• 2 carp fillets, approx. 150 g each (with skin, cut through)
• sprig of thyme
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed
• zest of one lemon
• oil and a large spoonful of butter for browning

For the brine:

• 6 star anise
• a handful of black peppercorns
• 1 whole cinnamon stick
• handful of coriander seeds
• handful of fennel seeds
• 5 litres of water (+ 10 litres of water with ice)
• 750 g crystal sugar
• 1½ kg sea salt

Procedure:

1. Boil all the spices in water with the sugar and salt, strain and pour into a container with 10 litres of water and ice cubes to cool the decoction.
2. Mix the remaining spices with a little water and return to the brine.
3. Soak the carp fillets in the brine for 30 minutes, remove and drain.
4. In domestic conditions, do not dry the fish under a fan, but fry directly in oil - skin side down. After a minute, add the thyme, garlic and lemon zest, followed shortly by the butter.
5. After a while, start basting the fillet with the melted butter from the pan - the fat will cook through, flavour and smell the carp and the proteins will caramelise deliciously.
6. Finally, turn the fillet over, let it finish cooking for half a minute and serve.

For the sauce:

• 300 ml buttermilk
• 2 tablespoons honey
• 200 g elderberries pickled sweet and sour
• lemon juice to taste
• salt for seasoning

+

• approx. 100 g cauliflower
• a knob of cold butter
• handful of fresh spinach

Procedure:

1. Bring all the ingredients for the sauce to a gentle boil and blend until smooth.
2. Fry the cauliflower in butter, cut into florets, add the buttermilk sauce and soften with cold butter.
3. Stir the fresh spinach leaves into the sauce and serve.

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