Christmas carp differently: Try this simple recipe from U Kalendů

A restaurant and bakery on the right bank of the Vltava

The U Kalendů pub has occupied the site of the former settlement of Podskalí since the turn of the century. Today, they serve food without pizzaz and carefully treated beer, blurring the line between bakery and restaurant. Chefs make use of yesterday's bread, and the bakers experiment with unexpected ingredients – pick up a crusty loaf or something swet from the bakery, or sample fried kvass in the restaurant.

Carp for the Christmas table

In Czech cuisine, fish used to be mostly boiled or baked. The first recipe for fried carp was published in 1805 in a book by the cook and restaurateur Anna Marie Neudecker. The fish was salted, coated in flour and and dipped briefly in water. The fillets were then coated in breadcrumbs, fried in lard and sprinkled with green parsley before being brought to the table.

In the course of the 19th century, fried carp became popular and began to appear as the main course at Christmas dinner in the cities, especially in Bohemia. At this time, fish became more accessible thanks to the development of the fish farming industry and was commonly sold in markets.

Carp as a traditional Christmas dish was also established by the Christian Church, which emphasised fasting during Advent. Because meat from warm-blooded animals was forbidden during Lent, fish, including carp, was an ideal substitute. Carp thus came to the Christmas Eve table as part of the tradition associated with Lent.

Mohlo by
vás zajímat

Mohlo by vás zajímat

To the roots of Czech cuisine: What does black carp taste like, and how long has fish been fried in breadcrumbs?

If you don't want the classics

Are you looking forward to fried schnitzel, but would you like to prepare your carp differently this time? At U Kalendů, it is served baked - after filleting, however, it first goes into a brine with sugar and spices which is easy to prepare at home.

Let the fillets rest in it for about 40 minutes. "This is to allow the flavour to permeate the meat. It will also tenderise beautifully and hold its juiciness better during baking," explains Ondřej Landa. He also recommends carp from Chabrybarna, which also supplies fish to the U Kalendů restaurant.

The easiest way to prepare the fish is to cook it classically in a frying pan. "It is essential to fry the skin until crispy and add garlic and thyme. The fish is then covered with butter," says the chef. You will appreciate the fact that the dish is ready in five minutes.

"Carp can also be can also be baked in the oven. It is a fish like any other and there are no limits to imagination," encourages Ondřej Landa. He mentions, for example carp chips which have also appeared on the menu at U Kalendů in the past. Carp fillets are also marinated in the aforementioned brine and then put into kefir. 'From there, it was into flour and then it was the turn of the frying,' says the chef.

If you want to experiment, go for the marinating. "And do it in something acidic that will 'cook' the fish. So if you decide to marinate the carp, do it in lemon juice and marinate it for at least an hour," adds Ondřej.

However, there is also smoked carp which finds a similar use to smoked mackerel. You can also use the "smoked carp" to make a delicious spread. Simply mash it, add some meadow grass, half an onion and season with pepper, salt and lime and you're ready to go! And if you dare, you can also try carp tartare.

Proper filleting

Carp are not de-boned because it is difficult to get the bones out. Filleting is therefore the right choice. "This way, only the small bones that soften when baked remain, and it's rare that you'll find any," says Ondřej Landa, adding that thorough filleting is especially appreciated at Christmas dinner by children, who are usually quite annoyed by picking out the bones. It is also essential to have a good, sharp knife and scissors to cut the back bones.

And what to serve the carp with? With traditional potato salad, but vegetable puree in various ways, such as cauliflower or parsnip, is also an excellent accompaniment.

Pilsner is a good choice for a drink. If you prefer wine, buy a drier white.

Roasted carp with cream sauce and vegetables

Ingredients:

• 60 g carrots
• 30 g parsley
• 30 g celery
• 40 g potatoes
• 50 ml asparagus brine
• 80 g butter + for browning the carp
• 20 ml cream
• 15 g pickled asparagus
• 150 g cut carp fillets
• salt and pepper
• lard
• ghee
• dill, chives

Asparagus brine:

Ideally prepare the brine a few days before you bake the carp. Another option is to buy asparagus already pickled.

• 50 g caster sugar
• 100 g vinegar
• 150 ml water

1. Start with asparagus in brine. Boil the ingredients for the brine and then pour it over the prepared fresh asparagus in the jar. Then either jar it (like cucumbers, for example) or just wrap it up and store it in the fridge.
2. Leave to rest for a few days.

Sauce:

1. Dice the carrots, parsley, celery and potatoes (you'll use these later). Then boil the carrots, parsley and celery briefly in boiling water.
2. Now use the sweet and sour brine in which you have pickled the asparagus. Pour approximately 50 ml of the brine into the pot and boil briefly.
3. Remove from the heat and slowly whisk in the butter cubes and cream. Stir until a creamy sauce is formed.
4. Place a spoonful of ghee in the pan and sauté the steamed vegetables. Then add it to the sauce.
5. Finally, season the mixture with pepper and salt and add chopped herbs (dill, chives).

Now get on with the carp:

1. Melt the butter in a pan and put the carp fillets in it. Fry them for about five minutes on each side.
2. In the meantime, fry the potato cubes in the lard.
3. Once the fillets are done, serve them on the sauce with the vegetables and top with the potatoes.