A day in the life of Kantýna's Head Butcher: Preparing meat for the kitchen, taking orders and always on call
Kantýna: Temple of meat
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Honza, how did you get into butchery?
I'm from a village, and every year we had a pig slaughter at my house. I enjoyed it more and more until I finally went to study butchery. I've always been attracted to working with meat.
Did you learn any techniques as a child, or were you more of an observer?
I helped. And then I went to industrial college to study meat technology.
Do you feel that if you want to be a butcher, school gives you a good foundation?
I'm sure. It instilled in me a general knowledge of chemistry and meat handling. We went to practice once a fortnight, otherwise we were in the laboratory. And at the end of the year we went to the meat factory for three weeks.
Where did your steps lead after school?
I started working in the famous U Dolejších butcher's shop in Davle. As a student I used to work there in the summer and after graduation I was offered a job. I stayed there for three years. Then I went into another field for a year, working as a financial advisor - and I quickly realised that it was definitely not for me.
That was a pretty radical change. Did you get tired of butchery?
I enjoyed it, but I wanted to try something else. After that detour, I joined the lab. Originally just for a year, but I ended up staying a lot longer. And I'm glad I did, because that's where I met my future wife.
What were you specifically in charge of there?
Sample preparation. We were receiving 10,000 samples every week, so it was pretty demanding. I was in charge of work allocation, deadlines, orders... We specialised in soils, soils, water and food. And after eleven years, I left for Kantýna.
What happened?
Working in the lab was no longer fulfilling. I had hardly any free time, working Monday to Saturday, then night shifts. It was unbearable.
Did you know right away that you wanted to go back to meat?
Yes, because I already had a relationship with it. Plus, my last year in the lab, I started running a stand - selling hot dogs and burgers. But now I don't have time, so I'm done with that.
And you didn't want to pass the stand on to someone else?
Oh, no, that's my baby. (laughs) Plus, I've added a gastro rental business, which keeps me pretty busy, too. And I have a lot of projects around the house, so there's just no time for that right now. But never mind, I'll get back to it when I can.
Work in Kantýna
How did you manage at Kantýna after you started?
It was challenging. I was brought there by my brother, who was working at Ambiente at the time. I saw a video where Jirka Michal (editor's note: Kantýna's chief cutter at the time) says they're looking for a salesman. I answered the ad, we met twice - and it worked out. Then he trained me, as did his successor Petya Novotny.
What position did you start in?
I started as a salesman and stayed there for about a year. Before Petya Novotny left, he asked me if I wanted to go to the meat factory. And of course I wanted to.
What's a typical day like for a chief cutter?
I'm mostly on the phone. (laughs) When I come in the morning, I first prepare the meat in the kitchen according to the list we have prepared from the previous evening. In the meantime, new goods arrive. We'll stock it, then I'll take the orders, do some work on the computer, check the demolition room... And when it's ready, I go to help the guys with the production. There's more and more meat.
Can you all still fit in there?
We haven't seen a submarine yet, so we're good! Before the covid, we still had a temp, Jirka Slanina, who helped with production on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. I'm taking over now to keep the boys up to speed with the demolition. When someone has a holiday, they have to do it with less people.
They bring you meat every day?
Monday through Friday. The biggest loads are on Fridays, because of the weekend - we have 1400 kilograms of meat in the demolition plant.
How much of that goes through your hands?
When I'm on weekend duty, I do it all. On Fridays there are two of us in the cutting room - one finishes at 4pm because he's preparing the products, the other at 9pm. Then on the weekend the butcher is there to butcher the meat himself. But if you make a system of it, it can be managed. Good planning is essential - in the butchery and in the shop.
Craft and reality
What is the state of the butchery trade in this country today - is there any interest in it?
It is still a problem to find a good butcher. Those who really know how to do it are few and mostly older. The younger ones we collect more among enthusiasts. Very few people study butchery today.
But if someone comes to us who is interested in the job - and you can tell right away - we'll teach them everything from scratch. For example, we had a colleague who didn't know the difference between beef and pork at the beginning. But she was enthusiastic and eventually advised customers on which meat to choose for which dish without any problems.
Is this job physically demanding?
It is. And mentally tough. When I work from 9am to 11pm for three days straight - Friday, Saturday and Sunday - I'm really wrung out. Plus, it's more mentally demanding after the cover. People come with different settings and needs, they have a lot of questions.
Which questions do you enjoy?
When someone is genuinely interested, it's great. We like questions like Where do you get your meat from?, Where are the animals raised?, Who brings it to you? - we'll be happy to explain.
How about you - are you more of a production type or a counter type?
I like the shop, but now I'm more of a wrecking yard guy. Butcher's got the advantage of being in a room and concentrating on his job. And sometimes that's a gift.
Favourite butcher tool?
A knife. And an awl, a whetstone, I can't do without that. Sharpness matters a lot.
Favourite Kantýna dish?
Everything, but I love schnitzel! I've been a steak man since I was a kid.
Best part of the butcher's range?
High sirloin, that's really top of the line among steaks.
Do you still have a lot to learn as head butcher?
You're a lifelong learner. I'm learning every day. Sometimes the guys in the kitchen show me a trick, we demonstrate different cutting styles, recipes, techniques... There's always something new.
What about cooking? Do you enjoy it too?
Yeah. I cook a lot at home, I don't let my wife in the kitchen much.
Do you plan on staying with butchery forever?
I don't think I'll be a butcher for the rest of my life. It's not even health-wise - it's five degrees in the cutting room and you're on your feet for 14 hours a day. After a few years, your body will tell you enough.
And what would you say to someone thinking of working in the Kantýna?
Don't be afraid. Come and give it a try - we'll take good care of him. And if you're willing and open-minded, you'll learn everything here.
