Czech ham: How is it made, and what determines quality?
Taking a stand for quality meat
First, a little history. Our ancestors already knew how to preserve meat - salt and air were the only "preservatives" available to them. The first mentions of ham dates back to ancient Rome, when meat was salted, smoked and dried to make it last on long journeys.
In the Czech Republic, ham has a great tradition since the 19th century. The famous Prague ham has been exported all over Europe and continues to make a name for Czech butchery. It was first produced by in 1857 by the butcher and smoker František Zvěřina. Since then, it has undergone a remarkable evolution, gained worldwide fame and today is offered by Naše maso in Prague's Dlouhá street, where it is one of the most popular delicacies.
Although ham is still a staple item in the shopping basket, its quality fluctuates. Industrial variants often contain polyphosphates, stabilisers and flavourings. Butchers who are returning to honest processing are doing things differently: just quality meat, salt and time.
To be called ham, a product must comply with clear rules under the law:
- Ham made from meat other than pork must be labelled on the packaging with the type of meat used and the body parts of the farm animal.
- Each ham must be labelled with the quality class, indicating whether the product contains more or less meat.
- A distinction is made between ham of the highest quality (must contain at least 89 % meat), choice (at least 72 % meat) and standard (They differ not only in meat content but also in texture.
- For baby ham, which we often see in shops, there are no legislative provisions and it is therefore up to each producer to decide on its composition. Often, the term 'baby ham' is used to describe products of a high quality and premium class, while at other times the composition corresponds to the standard class.
- If the product has less than 10 % pure muscle protein then it is no longer ham but a substitute, typically sold under names such as 'cut' or 'brick'.
What can all be called ham?
What we think of as ham can vary from one part of the world to another. The basic division goes something like this:
- Braised ham: The most common in the Czech Republic. The raw meat is salted, sometimes seasoned with spices, then cooked, usually steamed or boiled. The result is a pink, tender sliced product, often with a higher water content.
- Smoked ham: Similar to braised, but also undergoes smoking, usually cold, sometimes hot. It has a more pronounced flavour and aroma.
- Dried ham: Classic in the Mediterranean, think jamón or prosciutto. The meat is salted and left to air dry, possibly for several months. The ham has an intense, salty flavour and is slightly oily.
- Ham salami: A butcher's hybrid - a mixture of pieces of meat (usually from a pork shoulder or leg), finely chopped and shaped into a salami-like form. It may be cooked, sometimes smoked.
- Beef ham: Less common, but very interesting. It is made in a similar way to braised pork, but has a darker colour and a different texture.
Semi-forgotten beef ham
If you think ham is exclusively pork, turkey or chicken, know that the beef version has a long tradition in the Czech diet. This ham is distinctive for its full, distinctive flavour and a textured, meaty consistency. Although you won't find as much of it in our shops, it certainly has its place in the modern kitchen.
In Amaso it's made from Czech Fleckvieh beef and every slice is juicy and delicious. The preparation is not quick - the meat has to rest in a salt liquor, then it is rinsed lightly in warm water to desalinate the surface. Then, after drying in a warm smokery it is slowly smoked on beech wood and gently steamed for several hours.
In the Naše maso butcher's shop, sandwiches with beef ham or pastrami are very popular. You can easily prepare these at home! Heat the butter in a pan and fry the beef ham briefly, and then just put it between two toasted slices of bread, accompanied by sauerkraut and mayonnaise.
What you may not know:
Beef ham has a long history, with its popularity dating back to the Middle Ages. Today, it is popular in Germany, where it is produced under the name Rinderschinken, often lightly cured and served as a delicacy.
Braised ham: tender but with character
If you prefer more tender and juicy meat, then this is the right ham for you. This variant is produced in Amaso from Preštice Black-pied pigs, and is renowned for its tenderness and suppleness. The stewing process is linked to the technical advances of the 19th century, when pressure cookers and steam changed the way, the way meat was cooked and braising ham became more popular as a result.
How is quality braised ham made?
Making an honest braised ham is a craft that requires patience. The basic process at Amaso is as follows:
Selecting the meat - most often pork leg and knee.
- Salting - Amaso salts the well-chilled, week-aged hams with Praganda salt.
- Curing - up to two weeks of resting in a vat to develop the flavour and colour of the ham.
- Rinsing - then rinsed lightly in warm water to desalinate the surface.
- Heat treatment - they are then wrapped and gently steamed for several hours.
If stabilisers, phosphates and thickeners are not added, everything must run like clockwork - otherwise the ham will simply fall apart.
Ham salami is a sure thing for sandwiches
And finally, here's the ham salami - a classic which everyone probably knows, but few know the complex production process behind this delicious piece. It is made from cubes of pork mixed with finely chopped lean meat. The whole mixture is flavoured with white pepper and nutmeg, giving it just the right complexity of flavour. The mixture is then stuffed into red paper casings, smoked on beech wood and then steamed.
What you may not know:
In Bohemia, ham salami is known for its slightly smoky flavour and is popular in the form of a cone. In some countries, it is served in slices that are stacked in layers to create distinctive patterns - a kind of 'mosaic effect', which is one of the reasons why this salami is so visually appealing.
What to do with ham in the kitchen?
Each of these hams has its ideal use in the kitchen:
- Beef ham with a full, meaty flavour is great on bread, in sandwiches or as part of a platter.
- Braised ham is a perfect choice for a side dish or in a stew, for quick snacks but also for recipes that call for tender, juicy meat, such as ham fritters.
- Ham salami is not only delicious on sandwiches but it's also popular warm, sautéed in onions in ham fritters or as part of delicious egg dishes like ham and eggs.
Ham is simply an essential part of our culinary heritage. The next time you're choosing the right ham to snack on, remember that it can be not only a delicious choice, but also a piece of true craftsmanship.
