Pizza as cultural heritage: How Naples defends tradition
"If you want to taste a real margherita, it is not enough to go to Italy, but you must visit the Campania region, preferably Naples itself - or go to Pizza Nuova. The restaurant is a member of the Verace Pizza Napoletana association and the pizzaiolo is Neapolitan," says the 2006 Ambiente cookbook. That was the first crumb of the idea to bring the first ever Neapolitan pizza to Prague, and with it the legendary Italian love of food. A pizzeria opened on Revoluční Street, where they work to make the dough taste like it does in Naples, despite being kneaded by Czech hands, keeping their commitment to the guests and the Verace Pizza Napoletana association.
An obsession with simplicity
"Years ago I met an Italian who told me about Neapolitan pizza as something completely unique, so we got in the car and drove to Naples," Tomáš Karpíšek recalls the moment he and his colleagues fell for the southern Italian mood, and the quality of a quite simple food. They were guided through the bustling city and its gastronomy by Jiří Jelínek, who became the author of the project The Italians Wine Food, and his Neapolitan friend.
"For three days we ate pizza from morning to night in famous pizzerias like Brandi, Dal Presidente or L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele, and it was clear to us that we had to convey this to the Czechs on a plate," says Tomáš, going back in time. "We were fascinated by the principle of a few perfect ingredients that come together to make something as good as a simple margherita with tomatoes, mozzarella and basil. But above all, we were there to pick up passion, which was absolutely crucial for our further work and approach to Czech cuisine."
Teacher Francesco and a certificate for humility
"During our trips to Naples, we managed to meet Mr. Antonio Pace, the founder of AVPN and owner of the legendary restaurants Ciro and Santa Brigida - meeting him convinced us of the importance of the Pizza Nuova certification. We wanted to make pizza like the best Neapolitans,", Tomáš explains, with a nod to the involvement of pizzaiolo Francesco D'Elia, who helped the Czech team learn the craft, alongside the sourcing of an Italian pizza oven and ingredients. First-class ingredients, traditional baking methods and skilled hands have earned the restaurant recognition and membership in the AVPN.
"Francesco was uncompromising. We had to put our egos aside and humbly learn the basics. It was crucioal to understand how Neapolitans think, live and relate to pizza. It is an untouchable wealth for them, a symbol of their home," emphasises former head pizza maker Ondřej Lufinka, who was there when Pizza Nuova was selected as the 291st pizzeria by the association. Today, the ranking counts over a thousand businesses that identify with Antonio Pace's intention, working to conserve the traditional preparation and social impact of Neapolitan pizza.
An interview from Naples
We had Antonio Pace speak directly to us about the origins and contribution of AVPN, as well as the history and popularity of Neapolitan pizza.
What gave you the idea to build the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana?
My vision was simple yet ambitious - to protect and promote authentic Neapolitan pizza. I decided to set up the association in 1984, when I realised that the word "pizza" was being used, or rather misused, for any kind of flavoured dough. It was in the 1980s that our culinary heritage was in danger of being weakened and 'corrupted' by the influence of the industry and fast food. Pizza spread around the world at an incredible speed and in the rush it began to lose its roots.
What was your idea behind it?
We didn't want to create a monopoly or prevent others from serving their own versions of pizza. Our goal was to uphold the dignity of a product that was born out of modesty, and at the same time possesses an invaluable artisanal richness. We wanted to set a clear boundary for what Neapolitan pizza is, and what it is not, and to codify the tradition so that future generations would not forget what our ancestors' pizza really tasted and looked like.
What in particular was important for you to record?
The core rule and the heart of everything is the dough, which contains only water, salt, yeast and flour. There is no added fat or sugar. Another principle is the art of stretching and shaping the dough entirely by hand, and then baking it in the oven at high temperatures for 60 to 90 seconds. Contrary to modern trends that advocate often over-the-top ingredient combinations, we should talk much more about a certain balance. Pizza originated as a popular, complete and relatively inexpensive meal.
How did you determine the conditions that certified pizzerias must meet?
I certainly didn't come up with them myself! I approached the old pizzaioli masters of Naples, real veterans of their craft, and prominent families. Together we wrote down what for centuries had only been passed down by word of mouth from father to son, and the result was The International Disciplinary Code. Based on history, we laid down rules concerning ingredients, but also time, temperature or dimensions.
Do you see the Association as a guarantee that the original Neapolitan pizza will not disappear?
The AVPN has become a guarantor, a beacon and a guardian of the regulations. But written rules alone are not enough. Tradition lives only when it walks in the feet of the people, so to speak. That's why we must cultivate education and raise future pizzaioli to respect the craft, as well as educating guests and consumers. I believe that if the customer understands the difference between an honest artisan product and a poor imitation, the tradition is sufficiently protected.
What is the exclamation mark for contemporary Italian cuisine?
I think it is currently facing the challenge of preserving its soul and identity despite globalisation and social media. In order to cater to foreign tourists and Instagram fads, we often risk losing the authenticity of our cuisine's flavours. Another challenge is to find young people willing to train as artisans. Both cooking and the profession of pizzaiolo require certain sacrifices. It means heat, sweat and years of dedication.
How did you feel about the inscription of Italian cuisine on the UNESCO list in 2025?
I still feel indescribable joy. How could I not?! It confirms that Italian food is a living part of the culture. We celebrated for the first time in 2017 when "the art of Neapolitan pizzaiola" appeared on the list. This was probably the biggest victory of my life and of our association. Because UNESCO understood the meaning of it all - it did not highlight pizza as a product, but the man and his art, the transmission of knowledge and the culture that revolves around the oven.
Why did you close your restaurant after all these years?
It was a very painful decision. Ciro a Santa Brigida grew into an institution, it was a salon in the middle of Naples and it was part of my family's story since the 1930s, but times are changing. The dynamics and complexity of managing such a large establishment in the centre of the city were becoming unbearable and, moreover, there was no natural generational turnover. My commitment to AVPN was demanding more and more of my energy and time, so I chose to end a wonderful chapter and leave the restaurant with its prestige and fond memories rather than compromise.
What would you wish for Czech cuisine?
My wish is that all national cuisines can evolve without losing their pure character. Tradition is not ash, but a fire that must be maintained. It would be great if every nation maintained respect for the ingredients and the work of those who produce the food. But above all, I would like food to remain what it was created to be. Food is not a competition or a television show, but a moment of encounter. A moment that carries the values of our society, whether it is an emphasis on family or warmth.
As Czechs, you can do what we did in Naples - cherish your grandmothers' recipes, support agriculture and teach your children about the original flavours of your country. But above all, be proud of your roots.
A little something extra
UNESCO recognises 3 types of pizzaiolo: maestro pizzaiolo prepares the pizza, guards the tradition and teaches others the technique of working with the dough. Apprentice pizzaiolo (sometimes also guaglione) learns from the master, while the baker (fornaio) shapes, decorates and bakes the pizza.
Historians Antonio and Donatella Mattozzi say that pizza was born and made famous in Naples for several reasons, one of which is socio-demographic development. In the 16th century, Naples was considered the most populous city in Europe, and continued to grow from the 17th to the 18th century, mainly due to the arrival of peasants from the countryside, fleeing poverty and the political power of the local lords. The resettled city was filled with unemployed poor people who demanded nutritious food for little money. And pizza offered a solution!
The UNESCO World Intangible Heritage List, inscribed for the first time in history in 2025, describes "an activity that emphasises the intimacy of food, respect for ingredients and sharing at the table', but also the legacy of flavours, skills and memories across generations. The value is attributed to cooking itself, which helps to understand both yesterday and today, preserves specific expressions of culture and nurtures a sense of belonging.
