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From Pult to Philadelphia: Vojta Kodeš on the boom of Czech lager and a harsh reality check on American streets

Barman s výrazným plnovousem podává čerstvě načepované pivo zákazníkovi.
May 21, 2026
Photo: Kateřina Antoš
In April, Vojta Kodeš, bartender at Prague's Pult, swapped his home scene in Celnice for the American city of Philadelphia. As part of the Beer the Czech Way project, he went overseas with his colleagues from Ambiente to show that at its best, Czech lager is not just about the beer itself, but above all about care. What does a typical day look like for a Czech bartender in America, and why do you need a special permit to wash glassware there?

Welcome to Pult!

Moderní bar s personálem v pohybu, zářící nerez a chlazené lahve za sklem.
We're not just a bar. We know everything about beer! Pult is the only place you can taste perfectly brewed Czech lagers from six different breweries. Thanks to our experience and equipment, we're able to give the best care to all the beers we have on tap.
Come and compare them!

"Every day I went to Brü Craft & Wurst, where we tapped our Czech beers, arriving no later than 11:00. I installed the taps, washed the bath... just the classic stuff I'm used to from Pult. Then we always tasted each beer and got down to business," Vojta describes the start of his shift. Although the schedule may have seemed looser, the reality was different. "Around twelve o'clock we opened, and immediately people flooded in. Three or four of us were mostly tapping, others were tending to the guests and the participants of the Tap School," Vojta says. He himself was often at the tap. Each day ended around 2 a.m, at which point everyone had...a beer. What else?!

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"You don't know what we're used to!"

The American audience surprised Vojta with their enthusiasm and their legendary politeness. "They were always laughing, asking questions, interested. Sometimes you didn't know if it was their American politeness or genuine interest, but their questions were to the point," Vojta admits. "They wondered what the hustle and bustle was like and asked: 'Well, it's busy here, are you used to it?'

There was a lot of drinking in Philadelphia. All 3,000 gallons of beer that the expedition - consisting of PIVO Institute , Lokál, Dva kohouti and Pult - brought, were downed. "First we ran out of Budvar. Probably because it is the most famous of Czech beers in America," Vojta reflects. According to him, Americans know Czech lager and are increasingly looking for it. "America is experiencing a big boom, so people already knew what they were after. We were tapping all the different pours, and nobody complained about the amount of foam. They took it as a fact: this is what it's supposed to look like."

A big difference to Czech pubs is the glass washing. In the US, for hygienic reasons, glassware has to be washed in a dishwasher which is enemy number one for a proper lager ring. "So we took sponges and washed it all by hand. Because in a glass that went through the dishwasher, the beer foam breaks down and bubbles up. But if you want to wash glassware in America the way we're used to in the Czech Republic, you need a special permit," Vojta points out the technological pitfalls.

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Together with Luboš Slivka from Lokál Dlouhááá they also led the Tap School. "We taught the public the correct way to wash a glass, we explained the differences in tapping styles, we showed them the classic Czech pours. We all had a lot of laughs, probably because most of the participants got drunk from the amount of beer," he admits frankly.

The reality of Philadelphia

Besides the beer, Vojta also explored the local gastronomy, and didn't gloss over the downsides of the big city. "We had great giant Reuben sandwiches and at one diner an amazing jambalaya with shrimp and chicken. I put on a few kilos there," he admits with a smile. But Philadelphia has also shown him its tough side. "I have a bit of a problem with America because of the amount of drug addicts and homeless people everywhere on the streets. They used to sleep outside the entrance to our accommodation as well. It was a rough reality check that I didn't expect."

Despite the fatigue and culture shock, Vojta would definitely go to an event like this again. "You gets out of your bubble, learn new things, and open up to the world. In addition, it was nice to talk more with people from other Ambiente companies that I don't usually meet. It was worth it," he concludes.

Vojta's tips for Philly breweries

Love City Brewing

Located in the Eraserhood neighbourhood in an 1890s factory building. They focus on beers that are drinkable and connect the community. They have a huge taproom right in the lobby.

Human Robot

A brewery that specialises in a combination of European classics (Czech and German lagers) and modern American styles. They use Czech LUKR taps and are famous for their "Milk Tube" (a shot of mlíko, a classic Czech pour of dense beer foam).

Other Half Brewing

Originally an iconic Brooklyn brewery that has opened a Philly location. They are world famous for their Hazy IPA, but Vojta was most fond of the bitter and strong West Coast IPA.

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