We need to talk about Noma: On humanity and working conditions in gastronomy

The shine of the Danish restaurant Noma seems to have faded. When its chef René Redzepi first openly admitted to aggressive behaviour in the kitchen in 2015, no one would have guessed that he would one day face more accusations of psychological and physical violence. And yet, it happened. The wave that is currently sweeping through the business - and the gastronomy world - was sparked by Jason Ignacio White, the former head of Noma's fermentation lab, when he posted accusations on Instagram against former employees and treatment of interns. His posts have now been viewed by millions of users.

It didn't take long for the media to take notice of a situation that was initially only followed by a community of professionals. The New York Times came in loudest, getting 35 testimonies from people who experienced extreme conditions, attacks and threats at Noma between 2009 and 2017. Shortly thereafter, the matter was commented on by Redzepi himself. He claims to regret his actions while referring to a past he allegedly left behind. The business is transforming, he says, not just the concept, but also intern pay, investing in the HR department and leadership training. Redzepi's apologies, however, do not seem to lead to forgiveness. Instead, the plot is leading in the opposite direction.

The restaurant has announced that it is planning an independent employee survey. Still, it's losing sponsors for its pop-up in Los Angeles and is having to withstand public outcry that has potential to create real changes at the heart of the restaurant industry. Hopefully! It is easier to point the finger at others than to look in the mirror and change one's own attitude, yet that is where change necessarily begins.

Humanity over achievement

Noma unintentionally and paradoxically continues to inspire. It shows what can happen when ambition and vision are elevated above humanity. Redzepi, who has shared that he has been in therapy for several years, seems to have succumbed to the pressure and, despite his popularity, overlooked the fact that Noma is still just a restaurant, no matter how much it has influenced the domestic and international gastro scene. The cost has been high.

"This whole affair opens up a fundamental debate about where our industry and humanity is headed, and reminds us that every person in the world has the right to be treated as a human being", František Skopec, creative chef at Ambiente, shares his personal experience. "I also experienced this terror when I was on an internship in Italy years ago. The chef was using addictive substances, had brutal mood swings and was constantly yelling, pushing me or stroking my shoulders in a strange way. After two weeks, I packed up and went home. None of the knowledge he could impart to me -and there was a lot - was worth it."

Statements published in The NY Times show how many people were subjected to humiliation from Redzepi and his deputies, putting up with it out of fear or for the experience and name on their resume. "It was hell, but I learned so much there that I don't regret it," is heard between the lines, which point out how society accepts an exaggerated workload and hard-to-bear pressure to perform in the case of the "best" restaurants. As if success must necessarily be redeemed by suffering. "Any harm is a sign of weakness! It has always been true that people are only successful because they can work together, no matter how different we all are," František counters.

So it is time to rethink these values, to slam the door on what was once considered normal and admit that gastronomy harbours habits that have not benefited any age or generation?

Is this a product of the media?

The Danish chef Christian F. Puglisi, who worked at Noma at the very beginning, has entered the maelstrom of opinions. He doesn't defend Redzepi, but he doesn't persecute him either, and he finds the reports of the "enslavement" of the staff as chilling as the headlines proclaiming the end of the restaurant and the chef. So he's airing his criticism towards the press and social media. While they encourage dialogue, they also deliberately add fuel to the fire, often taking information out of context and distracting from the substance. The challenges that need to be addressed are happening offline, in real life.

"This is not a movement. This is a witch hunt," declares Puglisi. He faults the media for its emphasis on negatively loaded words, misused "to exclude from public discourse anyone who dares to do anything other than judge what they don't actually see." It is impossible to disagree with his point that verbal violence is becoming normalised through the media, as well as the - tabloid - idea of a gastronomy industry full of bullies.

"I read an interesting text about how TV shows have long presented professional kitchens. The media created an image of an environment where voices are raised, plates fly, emotions bubble and stress and passion reign, and sold it as entertainment. But when such behaviour is manifested in reality, the public is shocked," reflects František Skopec aloud. Gastronomy thus finds itself in the role of perpetrator and victim, much like René Redzepi. Do we want to improve the industry and the attitude in every operation, or lynch Noma and dethrone those who have worked their way to the top?

At the company's expense

"The most pressing question is one that no one seems to be asking: What do current Noma employees think? What do they want? What are they asking for?" Puglisi muses, warning of the consequences that fall on Redzepi, but also on his team of almost 100 people. "I don't see the restaurant world as a system of power, nor am I willing to believe that chefs are abused children who then go on to abuse others," Puglisi takes a stand. He is not alone in calling the events at Noma a problem for today's society as a whole, not just gastronomy.

"Chefs have become stars only on television. Those who stand in the kitchens are usually seen differently," says Francis, describing what he sees in the schools he attends with the New Czech organisation. "A lot of children are brought up to believe that only 'stupid' ones learn cooking or other crafts, so apprentices feel that they are something less and belong to the margins of society. We breed frustration, which can then turn into aggression. René Redzepi may well have gone through the same thing," says Francis frankly, noting:

"Until we change this, we have no chance of changing any of the things that are written about in The NY Times. Let's stop talking about Noma and start noticing how we in the restaurant industry treat young people and how we treat each other on a daily basis."

Nobody's perfect

Although Noma's story seems contradictory, it tells a story about human beings, their imperfection and vulnerability. It affirms that gastronomy can only sustain itself by nurturing its people, guaranteeing the survival of the craft, the tradition, the meaning of hospitality... in short, the things that matter. The main role across all disciplines is called the human being. That's why we should first of all strive to be better humans. "To confront the unpleasant legacy of our past and together forge a new path forward," as René Redzepi once said, giving a guide for the future that still remains true today.