My internship in Copenhagen proved that the standards at U Kalendů are world-class, says sous-chef Lucka Hlásková
A restaurant and bakery on the right bank of the Vltava
From speed to precision
Lucka, your Ambiente journey leads from Lokál U Bílé kuželky via Bufet to precision at U Kalendů. Is there anything you learned along the way that you still use today?
I used to go to Lokál U Bílé kuželky for part-time jobs when I was in school. I think every chef should know the traditional cuisine of their country and Lokál seemed like the best option. When I started there, it was a bit of a learning curve, but Michal Houška took me under his wing (ed. note: one of the chefs at Lokál U Bílé kuželky) and taught me how to cut, cook and master various techniques. And most importantly, he instilled honesty in me, because he hates to be cheated. It was a little bit of a solid foundation on which to build. I spent two and a half years there.
And then came Bufet in Karlín?
That's right. When I was finishing up at Lokál U Bílé kuželky , Petr Benda (editor's note: chef at Bufet) found out and called me. I couldn't believe it, it was Benda himself calling me! (laughs) I went in full time and David Plášil showed me what to do. Bufet gave me a major life boost, full of speed and sensitivity. Petr has the mindset of a leader and taught me so much about organisation. In the kind of rush that's often there, you just have to have a system - on the dispensing, on the fryers, on the grill.
How did your move to U Kalendů come about?
I worked at Bufet for about two years, and I met Honza Všetečka (editor's note: chef at U Kalendů). The restaurant was just about to open, and the guys were obviously bored at home, so they would go to Bufet from time to time. (laughs) Honza and I had an incredible time - we hit it off, because we're both perfectionists, but we also share other values.
Then I started part-time at U Kalendů. Honza wanted me to work there full time, which was a big deal for me, a great honor. I had a lot of respect for the cooks and pastry chefs at U Kalendů because I consider them some of the best in the Czech Republic. Ondra Landa, the sous chef, and I always took notes and I felt that one day I would end up here anyway.
I have to say thanks to all three establishments. I've met some great people and friends that I can't imagine life without today. I love you all!
From a temp to sous chef.
You were only a temp at U Kalendů because you felt you didn't have what it takes to be in this kitchen. When did that feeling stop?
For a long time, I felt like a scared puppy. (laughs) I was working on the side dishes and I often asked what to do. You know, it's a business that some people have put an awful lot of effort into, and you just don't want to mess it up. It was a shock to me - even the fact that the sauce was being turbocharged, meaning that it was being softened and aerated with an immersion blender before serving.
Eventually, you jumped from temp to sous-chef. How was that?
Mostly I had no idea. I remember the day Honza sat me down and told me. I stayed completely stuck in my chair. When I walked out of the restaurant and onto the street, I didn't understand that it had really happened.
What was the hardest thing for you in your new role?
For me, it was the overwhelming amount of information, and since I'm not the type to do things by halves, I placed a lot of demands on myself and I was often going home completely devastated. Sometimes I wondered if I was up to it, but I had incredible support in Honza and Ondra. When they see someone stumble, they always hold them up. Nowadays, when someone new comes to us, I'm not lost anymore and I can show them everything as a leader.
A rabbit in a hundred ways and breaking down prejudice.
At U Kalendů, you take a "nose to tail" approach. Was there part of the animal that you didn't necessarily like, but you fell in love with it here?
I've never had a problem with anything, except for tripe. But I was taught to eat tripe soup by Benny back at Bufet. He made the best soup I've ever tasted, and ever sincethen, I could eat it all the time.
Here at U Kalendů, I didn't know what to expect from the thymus gland. It's just that you have to taste the food you're cooking. And when I tried the thymus, I didn't understand what I was afraid of all along!
I hear your favourite ingredient is rabbit. What does it look like on your plate at the moment?
Our kitchen is based on cook like our mothers or grandmothers did. When you taste the food, it really takes you back to your childhood. And rabbit, in particular, has become more popular with us over the years. It used to be just rabbit, gravy, bacon and cabbage. Now we also add liver, kidneys or apple to the plate, and we also add a skewer with onions.
A month in Copenhagen
You've recently returned from Copenhagen's Michelin-starred restaurant Alouette. What was the biggest incentive to go there?
I've been drawn to Denmark for a long time, it's the culinary cradle of Europe, and I've been following Alouette on Instagram. I always think about these kind of ventures, I don't think I'm up for it, and then suddenly I'm there. (laughs) I got there through a friend of a friend. I was going away for a week and my colleagues at U Kalendů just encouraged me to do it. One colleague even had a winter headband made for me with our iconic "Ů". He told me, "It's windy in Denmark, don't be cold and keep us in mind." Ondra Landa again packed my gear and advice, and Všéťa even called me at the airport. From the beginning I was sure I was not alone.
Was it hard for you as a Czech to fit into an international team?
The people on the team were extremely nice. My English isn't the best and I apologised for the language barrier right from the start, saying thank you so much for your patience. And the reply? That it didn't matter at all, that they would help me. They took me in right away, explained everything patiently and let me do everything, including inventory. (laughs)
What fascinated you the most about the cooking and the ingredients?
The techniques and the huge attention to detail. Like the venison was prepared for an hour and a half, and they kept changing it around - ten seconds on the grill, then bathed in butter, and so on and so forth. The fish, on the other hand, was smoked on birch wood, and rubbed with glaze for a long time. At times I felt like I was standing in the kitchen for the first time. As for the flavours, I was blown away by celery prepared as crème brûlée with a yeast and champagne sauce. You put it in your mouth and you have such an explosion of flavour that you're regularly getting goosebumps.
Has this experience changed your view of gastronomy back home?
It confirmed one thing for me - the level at which we cook at U Kalendů is truly world-class. The fact that the guys on our team have been through the top restaurants in the world is reflected in the operation. We have great ingredients, but also well-organised meetings. So I wasn't really surprised by anything in Copenhagen in terms of organisation and quality, because I'm used to that standard from here.
From the kitchen back to the forest
Which direction would you like to take professionally?
I need to to keep moving, otherwise I'd be miserable. Luckily, I have a lot of creative work at U Kalendů and the bar is high, I'm sure I'll never go below it. But I'd really like to learn about fine Italian cuisine.
And what's your go-to recipe when you need to switch off?
I relax the most when I'm away, back home in Vysočina. It's heavenly quiet, you can hear the birds singing. Otherwise, I go running, to the gym and I like to read self-development books - in short, I do everything I can not to rest at all! And of course I love spending time with my family in nature. And now and then a decent beer is not to be missed either.
A quick-fire round
- Best food you've ever eaten: For me, every meal is great, whether it's vegetables, pastries, fruit, fish or meat.
- A raw ingredient that you never get tired of: This is similar. I enjoy working with every ingredient.
- What plays in your ears (not only) when you cook: It's a mix. I like Czech classical, rap, R&B and hip hop.
- Your guilty pleasure food: Meatloaf in a bun!
- If you weren't a chef, you'd be: Probably a personal trainer.
- A typical day off: Lots of vegetables and fish.
- What are you reading right now?: Successful habits by Napoleon Hill.
