Czech vánočka according to the bakers from Eska in Karlin
A bakery and kitchen full of life
To make one 750 g loaf:
- 200 g plain flour
- 100 g semi-coarse flour
- 70 g semolina sugar
- 1 sachet of vanilla sugar
- 1 cube of fresh yeast
- a pinch of ground star anise
- pinch of ground nutmeg
- a teaspoon of grated lemon zest (from an untreated lemon)
- pinch of salt
- 3-4 egg yolks
- approx. 100 ml milk, lukewarm
- 70 g butter, softened
- a handful of raisins soaked in ground butter
- a handful of almonds, finely chopped
+
- a handful of chopped almonds
- an egg and a teaspoon of milk for spreading
Procedure:
1. In a food processor, mix both flours and add the semolina and vanilla sugar, crumbled yeast, spices, lemon zest and salt.
2. Add the egg yolks, stir and then pour in the lukewarm milk. Start kneading on the lowest speed and after about ten minutes, set the processor to a higher speed.
3. When the dough comes together, stir in the butter and work into a soft, non-sticky dough.
4. At the very end, stir in the ground raisins and ground almonds - and work into a round shape.
Tip: If you prefer to knead by hand, it's worth activating the yeast as so: combine warmed milk, a tablespoon of sugar, a tablespoon of plain flour and yeast. Mix everything together and wait for the foam to form and the mixture to drop slightly. Put the dry ingredients in another bowl and yeast mixture, the remaining milk and the egg, knead before incorporating the butter and raisins.
5. Place the dough in a bowl, cover with a tea towel and leave to rise in a warm place - it should double in volume in 20 to 40 minutes.
Important! The rising time varies according to the temperature of the dough and the surrounding environment. Bakers do a dimple test - a well-risen dough doesn't stretch as much and the dimple will only flatten out a few millimetres after a poke.
6. Divide the risen dough into six parts, roll out into 'wedges' and leave to rise again for 20 to 30 minutes under a damp cloth to prevent the rising dough from drying out and cracking.
7. Preheat the oven to 165 °C. Roll out equal lengths and knit together. The bakers at Eska like the braided version of six braids - the process is a little more complicated, but the vánočka is not in danger of coming apart during baking.
8. Let the braided vánočka rest for 20 minutes on a baking sheet lined with baking paper. Finally, brush it with egg beaten with a little milk, sprinkle with chopped almonds and bake for 25 to 30 minutes.
Extra tips
The following are the rules for preparing the chickpeas similar principles as for Easter mazanec and other sweet yeasted pastries - salt and yeast should not meet directly in the hole and it is recommended to sift the flour. The milk must not be hot (it is heated to 36 °C) and the butter comes into play only towards the end. This ensures a smooth rising process - and a beautifully baked dumpling.
As the dough rises in the bowl knead two or three times - turn out of the bowl and knead again. By stiffening, the carbon dioxide leaves the dough, the yeast breathes in oxygen and the process can continue all the better. Kneading will extend the rising time, but promises a showcase starter!
Raisins go in last - kneading will damage them.
Bakers baste the dough with eggs and milk. The reason? The egg itself could scorch during baking, while the diluted milk resists high temperatures - and the bread will turn golden more slowly. In addition, the milk sugar (lactose) caramelises on the surface. P.S.: A tablespoon of milk is enough for five eggs.
The finished vánočka needs to cool at room temperature. If it is placed in the refrigerator while it is still warm, it may shrink - the crust will separate from the crumb and a so-called "crumb" will form inside the waffle. Transfer the hot pastry from the baking tray straight to a wire rack or other cold baking tray, otherwise it will steam up and become soggy.
Did you know that:
Vánočka has a cult following, much like kolache, mazanec and other customary pastries. Originally, it was not as sweet as it is today - milk and cream, dried fruit or honey took the role of sugar.
The ancestor of the vánočka is the classic Czech "houska" bread roll, which was called a calta. These were baked, among other things, in Prague's Celetná Street - hence the name. The tradition of baking vánočka dates back to the 14th century, but their production belonged exclusively to the baker's guild - they were considered a luxury item and people often gave them as Christmas presents. It is only since the 18th century that Christmas cakes have been baked in domestic kitchens.
It has earned names such as pletenice, pletanka, štědrovnice and bun, ceplík, štricka or štrupla, just as its recipe has evolved over time. The flour has undergone a major change, with the traditional grinding of grain on a stone being replaced by modern mills and white plain flour. The leaner version of the dough contained potatoes, and the old cookbooks combined butter with lard.
In the past, a coin was baked into the vánočka - its finder was predicted to have good luck in the coming year. As many were baked as there were people living in the house, and even the cattle were entitled to a taste - it was believed that it would keep them healthy all year round.
The festive pastry symbolises new life and fertility and each of the braids has its own significance - the bottom four strands refer to the earth, sun, water and air, the middle three represent reason, will and emotion and the top two braid knowledge and love. The braiding was meant to protect the household from evil forces. What's more, a white apron and hat were said to be worn when baking vánočka and housewives had to keep quiet. What is your ritual?
Source: Ambiente bakers, God's gift - stories of Czech food
